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Big Gully
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Look Before You Leak T,TR 
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Look Before You Leak 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 414
Submitted By: Chris Bernick on Dec 11, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Look Before You Leak


Easily protectable crack system on the left of the wall, just right of the arête. Watch for loose and rotten rock. Crux is about half way up in open book feature, but there's a great crack in the middle of the "book." You can easily top-out right near parking lot.


Starts on the ledge above the trail in briars.


A set of cams works great. Protecting the belay is recommended at either top or bottom. No bolts. Lots of opportunity for slung boulders and/or gear anchor.

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By Dylan B.
May 18, 2015

Bolted anchor has been added.
By Benandstuff
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Jul 6, 2015

This route has tons of loose rock on the lower portion. Check all holds before trusting them. It has a butt-ton of briars on the belay ledge. The climb is short and setting up top-rope is literally the longest approach in the park (provided you respect the big gully closure). The only things saving it from a bomb rating is the fact that the climb is actually fairly fun for the rating.

On top-rope, the right side of the wall is a 5.7 climb with a 5.10 move thrown in the middle.

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