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Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,464
Submitted By: Kyle Flannigan on Jun 26, 2008

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Climb up the left side of the north face of the Joint Boulder. It has hard first few moves, then it's hard again at the top, 20 feet up with an aspen behind you.



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By Kyle Flannigan
From: Gunnison
Jun 26, 2008

I've heard from V8-V10, don't know myself as I don't send that hard.
By Joe Collins
Jul 5, 2008
rating: V6 7A

It would be great if someone could clarify the group of problems on the awesome left arete of Joint Rock. This description of "Longshot" is very different from what is described in Phil's guidebook and from the bits and pieces I've learned from folks bouldering here.

It seems to me that there are several (at least 4) obvious variations. The easiest starts from the sloping dish hold and pulls onto the left slab at the midway point... probably V3ish. Continuing up the full arete from that point makes an awesome high problem (with the aspen in your back), probably V4ish. The problem that sounds similar to what is described here does a sit start and continues out the full arete... probably V5 or V6ish and among the best boulder problems anywhere. Another version traverses right at the midpoint of the arete then does a big dyno to the lip. This last version was called "Longshot" by someone I met there, but looks nowhere near V8. I'm a horrible dynoer so I can't provide any input on the grade of that version.
By Peter Erard
Sep 6, 2009
rating: V6 7A

Longshot is at most a V6. Using the arete makes this problem a lot easier. The holds on the face can be used as intermittent holds. No need to crank off them. The last move is very committing, but that doesn't make this a V8-9. It just makes the route committing.

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