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Long's Folly: Regular Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 507
Submitted By: Jason Ogasian on Jul 16, 2013

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Setting up an anchor at the optional belay.

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  • Description 

    Follow the bolts to traverse left into the obvious chimney facing the High Peaks trail. Climb up the chimney to an optional intermediary belay (with chains). Continue straight up to two rap anchors on the summit.

    Rapping from the summit with a 70m rope didn't leave very much extra on the ground. Be sure to check that your ends are down or, to be safe, use the intermediary rap anchor if you have a 60.


    Approach: hike north from the junction of the High Peaks trail and the Juniper Canyon trail about 0.4 miles (there is an outhouse at this junction, which is about 2 miles and 1200' elevation gain from the Bear Gulch parking lot). The trail will dip down, and then climb back up steeply, up some steps cut into the rock and a railing. You will see Long's Folly on the left marked by the obvious chimney bulging out of its face.


    5 bolts protect the traverse to the chimney. Medium to large cams can be used to protect the chimney to the first anchor.
    Above the optional belay is low grade (5.1-5.2) slab with no bolts for about 30 feet to the summit. It's a bit run out but a #2 BD C4 can be placed in a pocket about 15 feet up if desired.

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