REI Community
The Dihedrals
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ankles Away S 
Atrophy S 
Dihedral T 
Foster Child S 
Kids With Guns S 
Long Slab aka Milk Duds S 
Narcissism S 
Pillsbury S 
Twist and Shout S 

Long Slab aka Milk Duds 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 1,849
Submitted By: Kate Mittendorf on Nov 15, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Start off left of the bolts, then move to the righ...


This new route is a long slab climb that starts just right of Pillsbury in the Dihedrals area. It follows a bolted line up to a large ledge and then continues on up to the top. The hardest individual move is at the bottom, but up near the tree it can get wet and muddy, so watch out on rainy days. Surely will be a classic for the grade once it sees more traffic.


Go to the dihedrals and find the obvious features that mark the start of Pillsbury (the two big flakes around to the right from the dihedrals). This is the slab climb before you enter the flat face that precedes the bunker.


9 bolts

Photos of Long Slab aka Milk Duds Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Taken from the big ledge halfway up the route
Taken from the big ledge halfway up the route

Comments on Long Slab aka Milk Duds Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeremy Y
Feb 17, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route, the hands run out a little near the 3rd bolt and getting over the last bulge, and noobies will have to resist grabbing the very conveniently placed tree, but its a fairly solid route. After rain seeps some on the bolts, but not where your hands and feet are going.
By Mark Nunes
May 12, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Another super-fun recent addition to Foster Falls--and a great warm up route. I've heard it called a 9, but compared to Twist and Shout or Ankles Away, I would keep this one at 8+. It's far from being run out, but that move along the ledge to your next clip might give a new leader a bit of anxiety....
By Brandon.Phillips
From: Alabama
Sep 21, 2015

Definitely 8+ if Ankles Away is still considered a 9. Not nearly as aesthetic as some of the other routes nearby.
By Michael Dom
From: Seattle
Dec 22, 2015

My guess is that this was one of the first bolted lines here. It follows an obvious path.
By Darren Josey
May 15, 2016

What a fun lead, totally heady once you get under that silly little tree--don't blow that clip as you lean out to the right. A future classic for sure, don't miss this one.
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the chains!
View from the chains!
By Punter Brewster
From: Chattanooga, TN
Mar 20, 2017

Nice warm-up option to take some pressure off Ankles and Twist. Not nearly as nice and aesthetic as the other moderates here, but worth a cruise.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About