Friends over things, outside over inside. Will you go out with us? #OptOutside — Join Us Outside
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Jazz Rock
Select Route:
Bambi: Caught in the Headlights T 
Dead Deer T,TR 
Long Live Trad T 
Piranha T 

Long Live Trad 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FA: J. Bargo. FFA: J. Bargo, B Strachan, 1994
Season: Any
Page Views: 23
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


A great route with so much variety, it would have a different name if I had not slipped off it on my first try... I was going to name the route "And Now for Something Completely Different." because it changed character every 10 feet or so.
There was some somewhat friendly route scooping going on between Jerry, Willie, and Myself in those days.

Climb up this, a thin inset to a thin off-set to a wide crack to a leaning offset to a finger crack to a pod to an offset... to the top. Rap from fixed anchors on a tree.


On the left aspect of Jazz Rock, you will encounter this climb, a splitter crack of various sizes running ground-up to the top of the wall. It has some moss not far to the sides of the bottom and is about 15 meters to the right of a Moderate Chimney called "My what a Pretty Crack You Have."


A standard rack from .5 to 4"

Comments on Long Live Trad Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Chaney
From: Stanton, Kentucky
Oct 5, 2006

The top out is sketchy and not well protected. It used to have a dead pine dangling in such a way that you got speared as you clawed into the dirt top out.

I pulled two TCUs from the final section of crack after falling while trying to make the moves.

The route is well worth the walk though. This is a must do if you're in the area. If .10c is above your lead level, top out My What a Pretty Crack You Have and top rope it.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!