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Lower Cathedral Spire
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Hail To The Chief T 
Long Live The Chief (free var. Hail To The Chief headwall) T 
Northeast Face T 
Regular Route T 
Regular Route - Direct Start T 
South by Southwest T 

Long Live The Chief (free var. Hail To The Chief headwall) 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 10 pitches, 1000'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Bob Jensen, Josie Mckee, Patrick Warren 5/2017
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 466
Submitted By: bob jensen on May 22, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Upper variation topo The "unreported aid rou...

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Description 

  • *Currently this is an adventure route.**
We did not fix lines and just went for it so expect a fresh experience.

Climb the first seven pitches of Hail To The Chief. Ratings for those pitches are 9, 10-, 11-, 10, 11, 9+, 7 fuzzy wuzzy. At start of pitch 6 traverse right clipping bolt. Go around blunt arête and climb gonger flakes (5.7) back to join original line.

From the giant ledge atop pitch 7, after moving belay to base of pillar. Climb up a ways then around left side of pillar. "The finger" Once around climb towards the huge block that is in the right gaping crack above. Belay up under block where smaller gear is available and is safe from above. Save the 5 & 6 for the next pitch. 9+

Climb over left side of block and engage flare utilizing a range of techniques. You will pass an old aid ladder (upper north face Rowell/Macdonald 6/1962) the last bolt on this old ladder serves as a fine directional to keep the rope from going deep. Next, you will have to wiggle through a Harding Slot sort of affair. Once out of the womb, move left a few feet and fire up #6 crack to anchor ledge. Exhale.

Thank you Steve Bosque and Kevin Deweese for putting up Hail To The Chief and then telling me about it. The work they did was a lot!! Much appreciated.

Location 

Located on the West Face of Lower Cathedral Spire. Follow approach for Higher Spire. Start is located in an obvious corner to the left of obvious fractured roof system.

Protection 

Rack we took for entire route:
One 000 tcu
Two 00 tcu
One set totem basics
One set offset aliens (very very helpful)
Two sets C4's to #4
One each C4 #5, #6
Solid set offset nuts down to small.
8 shoulder length slings
4 ten inch draws

Descent  

Option 1- Rap "Hail To The Chief". Beware to place pro on way down first two. Otherwise you will be in space. Two ropes so bring tag.

Option 2 - Rap South By Southwest with one rope, but you'll have to go get your packs or come up to route with just what you're gonna bring.


Photos of Long Live The Chief (free var. Hail To The Chief headwall) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo overlay of Long Live the Chief
BETA PHOTO: Photo overlay of Long Live the Chief
Rock Climbing Photo: Line of entire route
BETA PHOTO: Line of entire route
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper variation goes up rightmost of the two big c...
Upper variation goes up rightmost of the two big c...
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper half of route.  Shows pitch 6 var. and LLTC ...
Upper half of route. Shows pitch 6 var. and LLTC ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lower 7 pitches of Hail To The Chief 
 9, 10, 11-,...
BETA PHOTO: Lower 7 pitches of Hail To The Chief 9, 10, 11-,...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 9
Pitch 9
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 9
Pitch 9
Rock Climbing Photo: Heading up start of pitch 8.  About to cut around ...
Heading up start of pitch 8. About to cut around ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 9
Pitch 9
Rock Climbing Photo: 5th pitch
5th pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: 4th pitch
4th pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Coming up ending of 3rd pitch
Coming up ending of 3rd pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Second pitch
Second pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch
First pitch

Comments on Long Live The Chief (free var. Hail To The Chief headwall) Add Comment
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By kevin deweese
From: Oakland, Ca
Jun 8, 2017

This free line that Bob and Josie created from DeWeese/Bosque's Hail to the Chief and Rowel/Macdonald's Upper North Face is destined to be a classic. Because of their work, climbers now have the ability to freeclimb the entirety of the West Face of Lower Spire in its entirety at a readily accessible grade.

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