Long Live Rock
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Ross, at the first crux. More hard climbing above...
The gully area on East Blob has several nice mixed climbs. This is the route immediately right of The Ticket
. Look high on the face for the 3 bolt finish and a short, left-facing dihedral about halfway up towards the bolted section.
Start as for The Ticket
. Clip the first bolt on that route and then head right up a low angle gully/dihedral. A little ways up this corner, there is a nice looking finger/hand crack that goes straight up to a ledge 15 feet higher. According to the guidebook, this crack is where the route goes, but I continued up the easy corner, following the path of least resistance to gain the left-facing dihedral at mid-height. This left-facing dihedral would be the trad crux of the route (10d). After pulling out of the dihedral, continue past 3 bolts (11a) to the anchor. At the last bolt, one can either climb a hand crack several feet left of the anchor, or a contrived path just right of the bolt, which is probably the intended line.
Be careful when lowering. A 60m rope just barely gets you back to the ground.
The route as described here is the "direct" version and seems to have largely superceded the original variation. The original variation climbed a slanting crack right of the bolted section, to a leftward traverse into the line of the direct variation (10d) just after its crux. This is also good climbing and feels a bit harder than the 10d lower crux.
Stoppers, single set of cams from green Alien to yellow Camalot. Bring a blue Camalot if you climb the original variation.
By mike bronson
Dec 10, 2016
A good climb that doesn't see too much activity. I've done it a few times over the years. Clip three bolts after the steep 5.10+ corner. It's a mixed route and always feels way more trad like than sport. Last time I did this, I wished it was the other way around...5.11a/b.