(3) Long Lane Rock Climbing
Long Lane from Music Hall
This section contains routes beginning just after The Traverse and continuing to the Bulletin Board. After crossing The Traverse and stepping up onto the large and slightly tilted platform, Long's Arete rises directly overhead. Passing beneath this and over the "monobridge," Long Lane proper cuts up into the shady, dank cavernous area. Directly in front of you is the Bulletin Board - a mix of 5.8-5.12 sport climbs of varying lengths. Once you drop down towards the bouldery gully below the Whale's Head, you are in Music Hall.
This area, especially the interior of the lane itself, gets the most shade of any area at LD. Combined with the concentration of accessible sport routes, this area is often crowded and noisy. If you get lucky and/or come out on a sunny week day, this can be a great place to get on a bunch of quality bolted lines. Otherwise, it can be like a vacation gym.
Some of the most classic routes here are Dragonslayer, 5.9 trad, just above the monobridge; Family, 11c sport, right side of the lane; Reach For The Sky, 11b sport, back of the lane; Heping, 10c sport, left side of the lane; Golden Gate, 5.8 sport, right side of Bulletin Board; Sky Ladder, 10b sport, left side of Bulletin Board. Most of these sport routes can also be climbed at least partially on trad gear.
Also, beware of what bolts you are using here. Not only are there many dangerous bolts mixed in, but it seems to have one of the most corrosive micro-environments at the crag, so the 316 steel bolts may not be entirely reliable either.
Approach from North Parking Area at Ho-Mei Village. Follow shoreline trail through Puffer's Pass and past The Clocktower. Rock-hop and scramble until you get to The Traverse. Once you have crossed this, you have arrived at Long Lane. Approach time ~20 minutes.
Rain & Shade
All routes get wet in the rain. Long Arete dries quickly, but the Bulletin Board and the Lane proper seep after long periods of rain.
The Lane itself is shaded from 8am-10am, comes back into the sun from 11am-12pm, then goes back into the shade. Bulletin Board goes into the shade around 12pm as well. All other routes are in the sun until late in the afternoon.
Climbing Season For the Long Dong (Dragon Cave) area.
Weather station 7.0 miles from here
27 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in (3) Long Lane
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in (3) Long Lane
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for (3) Long Lane:
Family 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport, 60'
Featured Route For (3) Long Lane
Sky Ladder 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Asia
: ... : (3) Long Lane
Start up small sidepulls and pockets. When you reach your first slight overhang, pull your first minor crux around the right side. Follow small holds and tricky feet up to the first roof. There are jugs up just above your head, but the angle makes for a strenuous pull. A good right-foot heel hook can make things easier. Getting pumped yet? The angle remains vertical as you approach your second, more intimidating roof. Using big underclings, get your face right up under the roof, and lean back to...[more] Browse More Classics in International
Topping out, thinking about a swim