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(3) Long Lane
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A Dream of White Dragons T 
Cross T 
Dragonfly T 
Dragonslayer T 
Family S 
Fear Only Fear Itself S 
Fireman's Ladder T 
Golden Gate Roof T 
Golden Gate Slab S 
Guava Banana T 
Heping S 
Inconceivable S 
Long Lane Dihedral T 
Long Lane Loose T 
Plausible S 
Pocket Dihedral T 
Pocket Overhang S 
Rated G S 
Reach for the Sky S 
Renai S 
Rhino Dihedral S 
Sky Ladder S 
Sky Ladder Dihedral T 
Skyhook S 
Upon A Painted Ocean T 
Virtues On A Street Sign S 
Xinyi S 
Zhongxiao S 

Long Lane Loose 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 68'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
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Submitted By: Jim Althans on Apr 15, 2017

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Long Lane Loose

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Long Lane Loose 

Actually quite a nice route. Definitely harder than 5.8 as the guidebook says. Get some good gear in the horizontals at the start and then head into the crux, wide stemming with small holds, up to committing sidepull then to a thin ledge (small cam). The rest is enjoyable, easier climbing on big cracks and ledges. Didn't see any loose rock, as mentioned in the guidebook. No anchor bolts at the top. 2 & 3 BD cams for trad anchor. Belay from a gorgeous ledge overlooking Long Lane with the ocean in the background. To descend, traverse over to the new anchors for Reach for the Sky or walk over to Dragonfly to rap.


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