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Routes in (3) Long Lane
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A Dream of White Dragons T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cross T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dragonfly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dragonslayer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Family S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fear Only Fear Itself S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fireman's Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Golden Gate Roof T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Golden Gate Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Heping S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Inconceivable S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Long Lane Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Long Lane Loose T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Plausibanana T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Plausible S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pocket Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pocket Overhang S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rated G S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Reach for the Sky S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Renai S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rhino Dihedral S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sky Ladder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sky Ladder Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Skyhook S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Upon A Painted Ocean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Virtues On A Street Sign S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Xinyi S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Zhongxiao S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 68 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 604 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Jim Althans on Apr 15, 2017 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball |
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Long Lane Loose
Actually quite a nice route. Definitely harder than 5.8 as the guidebook says. Get some good gear in the horizontals at the start and then head into the crux, wide stemming with small holds, up to committing sidepull then to a thin ledge (small cam). The rest is enjoyable, easier climbing on big cracks and ledges. Didn't see any loose rock, as mentioned in the guidebook. No anchor bolts at the top. 2 & 3 BD cams for trad anchor. Belay from a gorgeous ledge overlooking Long Lane with the ocean in the background. To descend, traverse over to the new anchors for Reach for the Sky or walk over to Dragonfly to rap.
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