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Unsorted Routes:

Long Island Iced Ted 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Josh Gross & Steph Shoemaker
Page Views: 2,459
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 29, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (61)
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Brazilian on Long Island Ice Tea

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb starts as for Lady Pillar, see the description of that route and the atached photo. After maybe 10M there are 2 sets of cracks. FOllwo the one on the right to progress upwards into a right-facing corner on steep fingerlocks and laybacks at the finish instead of follwing the more pedestrian low angle flake of the 'lady pillar.' The reward is a better, loger, cleaner route.

Protection 

A few of everything to get started, but with a lot of thin-fingers-to-tips gear to finish the route.I 60M rope might not quite get you down. Check your rope, or use a 70M for margin.


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By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 16, 2009

Another good route, although there is one section with a chockstone that didn't inspire confidence with gear. I jumped left and then back right to get the solid gear above the chockstone section. Upper part is fun off-fingers and liebacking. Will get you pumped if you don't move fast!
By Jason Albino
From: San Francisco, CA
Apr 10, 2017

Chockstone section is easily avoidable with the aforementioned left-crack-to-right-crack movement in the middle of the climb, where you'll sneak over to Lady Pillar for a body length or so. The top is definitely real with pumpy, not totally positive-edged #.5 liebacking.

  • Spoiler alert*....

Don't miss the key foot on the left wall right near the top - just as you may be pumping out, it's right where you want it to provide a welcome respite at you near the anchors.

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