Long Island Iced Ted
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Brazilian on Long Island Ice Tea
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
This climb starts as for Lady Pillar, see the description of that route and the atached photo. After maybe 10M there are 2 sets of cracks. FOllwo the one on the right to progress upwards into a right-facing corner on steep fingerlocks and laybacks at the finish instead of follwing the more pedestrian low angle flake of the 'lady pillar.' The reward is a better, loger, cleaner route.
A few of everything to get started, but with a lot of thin-fingers-to-tips gear to finish the route.I 60M rope might not quite get you down. Check your rope, or use a 70M for margin.
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 16, 2009
Another good route, although there is one section with a chockstone that didn't inspire confidence with gear. I jumped left and then back right to get the solid gear above the chockstone section. Upper part is fun off-fingers and liebacking. Will get you pumped if you don't move fast!
By Jason Albino
From: San Francisco, CA
Apr 10, 2017
Chockstone section is easily avoidable with the aforementioned left-crack-to-right-crack movement in the middle of the climb, where you'll sneak over to Lady Pillar for a body length or so. The top is definitely real with pumpy, not totally positive-edged #.5 liebacking.
Don't miss the key foot on the left wall right near the top - just as you may be pumping out, it's right where you want it to provide a welcome respite at you near the anchors.