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Long Island Iced Ted 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Josh Gross & Steph Shoemaker
Page Views: 2,397
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 29, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (56)
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Brazilian on Long Island Ice Tea

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This climb starts as for Lady Pillar, see the description of that route and the atached photo. After maybe 10M there are 2 sets of cracks. FOllwo the one on the right to progress upwards into a right-facing corner on steep fingerlocks and laybacks at the finish instead of follwing the more pedestrian low angle flake of the 'lady pillar.' The reward is a better, loger, cleaner route.


A few of everything to get started, but with a lot of thin-fingers-to-tips gear to finish the route.I 60M rope might not quite get you down. Check your rope, or use a 70M for margin.

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By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 16, 2009

Another good route, although there is one section with a chockstone that didn't inspire confidence with gear. I jumped left and then back right to get the solid gear above the chockstone section. Upper part is fun off-fingers and liebacking. Will get you pumped if you don't move fast!
By Jason Albino
From: San Francisco, CA
Apr 10, 2017

Chockstone section is easily avoidable with the aforementioned left-crack-to-right-crack movement in the middle of the climb, where you'll sneak over to Lady Pillar for a body length or so. The top is definitely real with pumpy, not totally positive-edged #.5 liebacking.

  • Spoiler alert*....

Don't miss the key foot on the left wall right near the top - just as you may be pumping out, it's right where you want it to provide a welcome respite at you near the anchors.

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