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Long Branch Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Johnson S 
Cartography of Spirit S 
Dirtbag Jesus Says a Prayer T 
Gone Sniffin' S 
Lightness, The S 
Ron Jeremy S 
Shorty's Lament S 
Unsorted Routes:

Long Branch Wall Rock Climbing 

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Page Views: 2,317
Administrators: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: wes calkins on Oct 13, 2014
This Afternoon

89° | 70°

88° | 62°

87° | 62°

86° | 63°

89° | 65°

88° | 66°
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Maybe the best sport climbing in the area. routes up to 80' in height.

Getting There 

Drive around 4 miles into the canyon. walk up the dry creek bed until you see a cairn on the left. follow cairns up the talus slope until you reach the trail system at the base of the wall.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 2.2 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Long Branch Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Mister Farnsworth, on the job

The Lightness 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b  West Virginia : Smoke Hole Canyon : Long Branch Wall
Climb the joint start to the right line out the tiered overhangs. Or traverse in from the right via Through the Looking Glass if others want to work on Cartography or Gone Sniffin'. This is also a perfectly legitimate, and perhaps preferrable, start, should the crag grow in popularity....[more]   Browse More Classics in West Virginia

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By Mike Farnsworth
Aug 1, 2015
As an FYI for everyone, the Dark/Sunny Side walls of Long Branch (facing North and East, respectively), currently have 26 routes from 5.7 to 5.13+. Some of these are a little dusty, and the trail is still pretty rough, but IMO, this is a great place to climb. Message me and/or try to find a copy of M. Gray's book for additional information.

The Dark Side almost never gets hit with sun, although it is a bit humid in the summer. However, the river below, as well as the waterfalls in the canyon, often provide respite from the heat. Also, the Guides' Wall (park at the same spot for Long Branch and hike to the right set of cliffs, which face South and East respectively) provides heat during the colder months. The Guides's wall has roughly 25 routes from 5.8 to 5.12.

All in all, from one parking area with a 15 minute max. hike, these cliffs provide climbing in shade/sun at almost any point of the day because of cliffs facing N,E, and S.
By TyrelJ
From: Alexandria, VA
Oct 4, 2016
If you couldn't get ahold of Mike's book, or even if you did, check out his newly released rakkup digital guide for the area

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