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Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie's Wall
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Cuttin' Cards for a Poke S 
Die Easy S 
Diving for Rocks S 
Hollywood S 
Hoover Head S,TR 
Hoovering TR 
It's A Wiggle Butt S 
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Lick the Window S 
Lonesone Dove S 
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Short People S 
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Torpedoes Away S 

Lonesone Dove 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 15'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
Page Views: 2,906
Submitted By: Jeff Kilpatrick on Dec 20, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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This route was the reason I started climbing last ...


A hard finish to Diving for Rocks


From the top of Diving for Rocks directly out the roof


1 bolt plus fixed anchor

Photos of Lonesone Dove Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling into the roof.
Pulling into the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: View from just off to the right.
BETA PHOTO: View from just off to the right.
Rock Climbing Photo: Trying to get it for Shane.
Trying to get it for Shane.
Rock Climbing Photo: anchored
Rock Climbing Photo: Hanging out and getting ready unclip and finish.
Hanging out and getting ready unclip and finish.
Rock Climbing Photo: Working roof
Working roof
Rock Climbing Photo: Lowering off of Lonesome Dove.  Video snapshot by ...
Lowering off of Lonesome Dove. Video snapshot by ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving through the roof.  Video snapshot by media-...
Moving through the roof. Video snapshot by media-...
Rock Climbing Photo: Big roof jugs!
Big roof jugs!

Comments on Lonesone Dove Add Comment
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By Dylan Weldin
From: Athens, OH
May 1, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Please don't TR off of the one glue-in bolt in the roof (Even if your rope is running through the anchors for "Diving")! Not safe... Compared to other climbs in the region this is a solid 5.11c/d. Definitely easier than .12 and definitely harder than .11a
By jeremy long
May 19, 2011

Always wanted to try this route, but that mantle looks mean. What are the anchors on top?
By John D.
From: Austin, TX
Feb 22, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Great climb, solid 11b or c in my opinion, pulling the roof is a burly move which I'd say bumps it up to 12a, maybe 11d is you're a strong boulderer.
By Ashinynickel
Sep 1, 2013
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

As much as I wanted this to be my first send and flash on 5.12, I have to agree with the others that this is more like 5.11 b/c. The route is a lot of fun though.
By Ryan Levihn-Coon
From: Austin, Texas
Mar 13, 2014
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13

It's two sport anchors and a permadraw in the roof halfway to the chains in the middle of the roof now.
By Tyler Garrett
From: Dallas, TX
Mar 27, 2014

Def a commitment move to get the middle chain on lonesome, the hold to reach it is completely polished. But once you get that, you're home free to do whatever you want, if you're worried about the obvious fall to a ledge, I'd suggest having someone set that middle perma.

Tons of fun.

Dont forget to use that hold as a heel and then smash your toe into the wall... if you're tall this is the best beta, dont mess around with putting your feet in the surf board when you're clipping the chains... it's really not necessary. - my right foot is hooked on the polished hold and then i turn my foot inward to lock my toe to the roof. Def good beta to keep the pump off your arms while you clip the chains
By George Schuhmacher
Dec 5, 2014

5.11a - Awesome, definitely not harder than .11b

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