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(09) The Far Side II
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Lonesome Dove 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Brian Pletta and Mark Thomas
Page Views: 1,948
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Nov 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Lonesome Dove

Description 

A Palomas classic! One of the best moderates here, and quite a popular warm up. Start in the dihedral left of Patchwork. Stem through the first 2 bolts and head left onto the face. The crux is after the 5th bolt. The online guidebook notes 7 bolts and an "easy runout on the arete". I was recently told that an extra bolt was added to this climb, though I did not count the bolts. There may be 8. I also do not remember anything being significantly run out.

Protection 

7 or 8 bolts to anchors.


Photos of Lonesome Dove Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: bottom of LD
BETA PHOTO: bottom of LD

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By Dave Wachter
Mar 2, 2008

My favorite warm-up. If you're new to Palomas, it's worth the trek out not only for the climb, but for the quality hike and overview of the crag.
By Ken Jones
From: Grants, NM
Sep 3, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Fun climb. There are 8 bolts.
By Nathan Kofahl
From: Albuquerque, NM
May 3, 2014

The right-hand anchor bolt hanger is a bit loose as of 5/2/14. The hardware looks good as far as I can tell (don't have much experience here), but the hanger was spinning on the rock a bit when I clipped draws into it at the top.
By Eric A.
May 15, 2016

Good climb, the crux after the 5th bolt has some pretty fun movement.

As of 5/15/16 the right anchor appears to have been re-bolted and is now stable. However, the new bolt is wider than the original and the chains are a little short for the new width. When cleaning and rapping down the chains were pulled in at a steeper angle than I felt comfortable with. If some kind soul could find it in their hearts to add some draws or quick links to lengthen the rappel points it would be much appreciated.

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