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Lonesome Cowboy 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, TR, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Greg Child-1988
Page Views: 1,138
Submitted By: Dan Dewell on Oct 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Robbie Freidel High on Lonesome Cowboy

Check NPS for Closures


Critical Cowboy and Lonesome Cowboy are on the Honeycomb Wall, I believe. At the South Seas sign-in, take the left trail and walk about fifty meters. Both of these routes are on your right, to the right of Mr. Critical. Critical Cowboy joins up with Mr. Critical for a few bolts, if you want to take this line.

However, with a cam, you can bring the crack into the Lonesome Cowboy route, if that isn't the intended line. Lonesome Cowboy, is a very cool route, but can be a little confusing as to which way you should go.

I enjoy venturing up, then out to the left, up the obvious crack, then cutting back to the right following the crack, place a cam in the crack, and head up and right. The bolt line doesn't make sense at times, in my opinion, but the route is a blast despite the confusion. There is also a funky mantle up high that is unforgettable. Very similar to the mantle on NutraSweet, but a little harder.

This route can be top-roped easily with two ropes at least fifty meters in length. One 60m rope (I have heard, but not experienced) can get you down from the top, with little to spare at the bottom. I have seen this done, but not done it personally. You can always play it safe with two 50/60m ropes.


At least, bring ten draws (maybe more), and a medium-sized cam with a two foot runner.

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By Anonymous Coward
Sep 15, 2003

This route can be top roped with 1 60 m rope but do be careful
By John Lang
From: Rapid City
Mar 25, 2015

This route is very confusing. I found 7 bolts on the way up, following the book topo view. Make sure to bring some gear unless you want a very long (and just a frightening) runout about halfway up.
By Mike Madsen
From: Rapid City
May 28, 2015

Did you redpoint? To my knowledge and experience with this route. Some of the stronger climbers in the area have agreed this is one of the harder climbs. This route packs a punch you will be hurting. Its long and fairly sustained to the top. Congrats if you redpointed! Grade? I have heard a few numbers thrown around. :)
By John Lang
From: Rapid City
Oct 27, 2015

I did not redpoint it. I wish! I made it through the first crux down low without a problem. I popped off the the second crux, the upper overhang(y) section, a couple times. I am not sure about the rating... definitely in the upper 12s but then again I haven't been on too many..

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