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Lonely Sinner 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tyler Phillips rope solo 10/10/07
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 577
Submitted By: TylerPhillips on Oct 14, 2008

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


P1. Start just on the right side of the jumble cleft. Locate piton on an arête off an exposed stance, climb up clipping a few more pitons while aiming for the 2 black streaks that run under a roof. Slot some good gear under the roof, locate the jug above and get established on the slab. Climb the obvious bolt line placing the occasional piece, from the 4th bolt climb to the right on a patina dyke to the break in the mini roof, from here climb straight up to a natural belay on the big ledge in between the belay(s) of 6 ways and Indie Dog. 5.8+ 200ft.

P2. Clip a pin at the lip of the mini-roof (a great way to find the P2 belay is this pin). Climb up very featured slab placing cams and clipping pitons and bolts to a “step”. From here use cool jugs and pull the lip, pad your way to the belay. 5.8++ 80ft

I am currently working the pitch above this.


Starts about 50 feet to the right of Indie Dog Memorial
(see topo)

6 Ways From Sunday rappel is the best way down.


Set of cams to #1 camalot, TCU’S, QD’s, a few shoulder slings nice.
70m rope

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By Pete Wilk
Aug 10, 2014

Belay for P1 can be made just below the mentioned pin on the lip at a pair of orange bolts. They blend well with the lichen in the vicinity.

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