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Lone Ranger 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a C0

Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: headwall unknown? Variation Bradley White, Larry, Kevin Klinepeter, 1989
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 526
Submitted By: bradley white on Jun 28, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: I climbed Lone Ranger finally!


At a (usually seeping wet a little below it), ramp heading in the east direction is a very awkward boulder like problem (5-9) to gain the ramp. After this, directly above the ramp is the original line of a couple of bolts without hangers. Variation begins where ramps ends, I put in 2 bolts to get to a crack going through the head wall right of the ramp. hung off bolt to place gear in crack and moved up the crack (5-10). At crack's end moved left easily (5-4)and back right through break to a belay (beware of rope drag). I then led through a large crack above belay (5-0) to dirt climbing up to a clean low angle (5-3) arête (no protection) to the top of this crag. This variation is called Lone Ranger after that mysterious man or woman that bolted the head wall long ago (likely by sky hooking or rappel bolting. The old direct line will definitely go free. Our variation right of the old bolts and left of the finish to 'Alaskan Arches'.


Yellow Buttress. Obvious ramp about 8-10ft off the ground on the middle east side. Get down by trail on west side or do 2 rappels from trees.


Light trad. rack with some medium cams, a couple of fixed bolts, long slings.

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By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 23, 2015

I climbed this obscurity on self belay top rope, Being alone seems appropriate to the name of the climb :)
The line is actually pretty cool if a bit wandering. I think we are very used to direct lines through obstacles in sport climbing rather than finding paths around them as is common in trad climbing.

I was able to free the one point of aid at mid 5.11... If I were to call it I would say the all free climb is about 5.11b... Small sharp crimps and pretty serious core tension got me through...

I posted a photo of the line as I understand it i'm sure Bradley will correct me if i'm wrong...

That was the last 5.10 on my list... onward and upward...
By bradley white
From: Bend
Oct 24, 2015

Good topo photo and accurate. What about the crack going up the left upper wall. I checked it out and almost went up it.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 24, 2015

Yeah I could see a good line going up the middle of the wall from the ramp and up that crack... Could be cool...
By Ladd
Oct 24, 2015
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C0

Lee, you beat me by a day. Saw your chalk on the route. I agree it goes at mid- 5.11 free.

So much lichen on this route, but holds were there. I broke a half dozen footholds pulling the free section, I think we have different beta.

Quality climbing in the middle bulge was decent and the ancient bolt ladder looked super sketchy.
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Oct 24, 2015
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b C0

I climbed this one on top rope on September 5. The line Lee drew on the picture is exactly what I climbed. I would agree with 5.11. It felt like 5.11c but moss and lichen might have made it harder.
Now Lee, you need to bolt it, clean it and claim the ligit FA. Hahaha!!!
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 25, 2015

Haha I thought mine would be the only repeat on this one... It's seen a lot of action!

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