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Lone Johnny & His 10-Inch Neck 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,238
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jul 22, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Zach pulling through the direct start option.


As you face the wall, the climb furthest on the left.

A fun, thoughtful opening sequence can be avoided by approaching the first bolt from the left. Cruise the rest of the face to the anchors.


4? bolts + anchor (2 cold shuts?)

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By Joe M
From: Beckley, wv
Sep 4, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a fun route, worth doing. The direct start option is probably more of a 5.9 upto the first bolt. After that, much easier.
By Glenn Foltz
May 31, 2010

Great route, especially for first timers... I am yet to take someone climbing for the first time that couldn't make it up! I agree to the direct start being more like 5.9! seems to get a bit tougher each year as the ground erodes away! The crack to the left of the route may be an easier alternative for beginners!
By Seth Webster
Jun 10, 2015

Yeah, the direct is rather tricky to sequence. Definitely not a 5.8 if you do that.
By wwSome
Oct 30, 2015

The direct at this point is definitely becoming harder and harder, feels like a 5.9. Every possible foot hold is polished and you're lucky if your feet stick long enough to make the next move. Bring a stick clip for the first bolt.

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