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Little England Wall
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Anne of a Thousand Days T 
Big Ben T 
Charles II T 
great split, The T 
Henry VIII T 
London Tower T 
West Minster Abbey T 

London Tower 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 275'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 1977 - Kent Brock, Don O'Kelley
Season: Spring / Fall
Page Views: 103
Submitted By: kirra on Apr 11, 2008

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Description 

P1-Climb a wide crack into another crack that angles left. Up crack and into chimney behind a large flake.

P2-Through and out chimney to top of flake. Continue up crack and out onto face to a small ledge.

P3-Climb left into the large crack and to the top.

Location 

Route begins apx 40 ft to the right of Big Ben (see area beta photo) see "Rock Jock's Guide to Queen Creek Canyon" by Marty Karabin for more routes in the area.

Protection 

Be careful of loose rock. Small-lge pro; stoppers, cams, hexes. Two-bolt anchor at top of Henry VIII, need 2 60m ropes for rap.

Take x-tra webbing in case you need to replace. Always check for UV damage that can cause nylon-slings to become brittle.


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By Tyler Eglen
Apr 1, 2017

Had a great climb on the London Tower.

Wasn't sure about how long to stay in the chimney on Pitch 2, so I switched onto the face of the flake after passing the 2nd chockstone. One minor exposed move around the corner, then smooth climbing to the top of the ledge.

Pitch 3 was pretty short and simple up the big crack.

We replaced the webbing at the rap, but used the two existing rap rings.

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