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Dream Weaver Wall
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Dream Weaver T,TR 
Great Expectations T,TR 
Locomotive Breath T 
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Tiptoe T,TR 

Locomotive Breath 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,386
Submitted By: percious on Mar 2, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Locomotive breath.

Description 

Left of the right wing wall is a nice right leaning crack. The traditional start of this route is on the right via Herberium, then traverse left and start the crack. Check your rope drag, as it can be a beast as you continue up the crack. This climb can optionally be started with Tiptoe, but there is no gear until you get up to the crack, and Tiptoe is a 5.9 start.

Protection 

Standard trad rack.


Photos of Locomotive Breath Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Just below where everything started to feel loose....
Just below where everything started to feel loose....
Rock Climbing Photo: Yours truly, looking up at Locomotive breath...
BETA PHOTO: Yours truly, looking up at Locomotive breath...
Rock Climbing Photo: Locomotive Breath
BETA PHOTO: Locomotive Breath

Comments on Locomotive Breath Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joel A
Jul 8, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Watch the loose blocks up top.
By CTdave
From: Victor, Id.
Aug 15, 2013

good exposure, great pro, great holds, super fun climb. Id say an area must do. I didnt have an issue w/ rope drag and the loose blocks in the crack toward the top are pretty stable. I pulled on em
By JIncillo
Apr 4, 2015

I'd agree! This line has great exposure for a 5.7 in CT. Fun climb. I'll definitely be doing this one again!
By Peter Brandon
From: North Conway, New Hampshire
Jun 20, 2017

This is such a great climb. The somewhat wandering start makes it interesting, and the epic exposure (by CT standards) at the end with good holds and gear make this one of the best 5.7 climbs in CT for sure. Watch for loose stuff up top, don't just grab blindly.

I lead it on a single rope, drag was manageable after extending everything.

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