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Locks of Dread 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: D. Miller, D. Singer
Page Views: 1,175
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 13, 2006

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The Locks... is on the Right. Barbarian Rising is...


One of the original 5.12s at the Waterfall! This all natural gear line, starts in a thin hands crack through steep blocky rock. A section of vertical fingers follows until the crack tightens down at a very important rest stance.

From here, try and find some very small wires/RPs. The bouldery, cryptic, and powerful crux on side pulls and gas pockets will test you mentally and physically. A pumpy finish adds flavor to this classic recipe.


Shares a staging area with Barbarian Rising,and Tainted Love which is characterised by large jagged boulders and sycamores.


Double set of small to medium cams,+wires, +small wires for the crux.

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By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Aug 2, 2009
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Crux is quite sequential. Make sure you scope it out carefully at the no-hands rest before launching into it. I was not able to clean my stopper that protected the crux sequence which will make onsight attempts a whole lot more pleasurable. There is a huge difference in difficulty between onsighting and flashing this route. Seemed more like straight 5.12 than 12- to me.
By Casey Niggemyer
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Nov 11, 2014
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

a large selection of small brass stoppers and an optional blue slider nut made this one feel safe and reasonable. One of the better lines for the grade that I've gotten on at the waterfall.
By t.schwartz
Nov 3, 2015
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

Great route...Bring the smallest brass you have if you don't own sliders (I do not). I also found a 000 C3 placement mid crux. Tricky crux, but is onsightable because of the rest before it. Nice little head trip on this one.
By Raines
Oct 2, 2016
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

There's at least a 00 C3 and red ballnut placement before pulling the crux in addition to the smaller gear others have mentioned. Don't be turned away from this one.

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