REI Community
Wye Creek
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
88 Chocolate Treats S 
About Time S 
Alien Resurrection T 
Aratika S 
Between the Lines S 
Bigger than Big S 
Chimneyphobia S 
Dark Places 
Don't be Decieved S 
Dream Thing S 
Drop Kick to the Head S 
Drunken Monkey S 
Indecent Exposure S 
La Belle Vie S 
La Submission S 
Leap Frog S 
Locked In A Basement 
Lucalucki S 
Mission , The S 
Monsieur Muscle S 
More Monkey Business S 
No Holds Barred S 
Oh la la! S 
Quest, The S 
Raining Body Parts S 
Red Curry Pot Climb S 
Ruled By Secrecy  
Short Fat Version, The S 
Smellie Crack S 
Twelve S 
Up the Creek S 
Unsorted Routes:

Locked In A Basement 

Hueco: V9+ Font: 7C

Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V9+ Font: 7C [details]
FA: Sam Anderson-Mangai
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 35
Submitted By: Sam Anderson-Mangai on Jan 15, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Locked In A Basement V9+. I did not send this in m...


This problem is located in the small cave with the triangular prow at the northen end of the Wave boulder. Sit-start with your left hand on the obvious under-cling and right hand on the big pinch. Set your right foot low in the cave on a good edge and smear your left on the roof of the cave. The crux is pulling on and slapping for the arete/lip with your right hand, aim for the seamingly good crimp just under the lip (its not a useful hold, unless you're Sharma) but over-shoot it and catch the sloping edge of the arete (There is a seam in the sloper that gives it abit more purchase. Double take with your right up the arete to a more positive sloping pinch, engage your core and swing your right foot out of the cave and up onto the arete. Plant your heel on the large quartz bobble (make sure its your shoe and not your fleshy heel that catches this feature cos it will cut you). Adjust your left hand slightly and catch the same under-cling with your left foot, now squeeze! Creep your left hand to the small dish on the left hand arete or the friction dependent sloper above it. Bring your right hand onto the prow joining the two aretes and dyno out left to a psitive side pull, high step with your left and rock over onto the prow, exit up left on the big slab.


This problem is on the Wave boulder at the Jardines. The Wave boulder is up the hill on the left hand side, it is a very visible streaked boulder. It has a few hard classic problems, The Possum V8, Dereks V10, First Blood V9+.


Pads and Spotter

Comments on Locked In A Basement Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About