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Lock and Load 

Hueco: V4+ Font: 6B+

Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V4+ Font: 6B+ [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 614
Submitted By: ferrells on Jun 9, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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  • Description 

    So I chose v4+ because this thing gets v4 in the book, and (+) because it is not v4. I mean, maybe it goes at gritty, skin-flaying, enraging v7.
    Start standing on a log, and grab a great jug horn with your right hand. Swing up and left to another good jug. Now pull on, paste your feet on the grainy, exfoliating smears at face height, and rock up onto the painful, gritty slopers 3-4 feet higher. Make sure to tear off all of your skin on these holds, make uncomfortable noises, throw awkwardly to holds that look pretty decent from below, fall off awkwardly, twist your ankle in the logs below, and then, as you are trying to catch yourself, fly backwards and slam your face and hands into the charcoal-covered tree trunk about 6 feet behind the climb. Repeat 2-10 times, or until you have a striking amount of charcoal on your face, and then leave the boulder alone and go climb something else.


    Just around the corner to the left of Backdoor Ass Attack.


    More than one pad would be nice.

    Comments on Lock and Load Add Comment
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    By Hans Travis
    From: Washington
    May 7, 2017

    The guidebook says starting down and to the left on the nice sloping pinches and using heel hooks to traverse up right to the regular start brings the grade to V6, which seems incredibly soft. If you can do the V4 then this will probably be doable and starting up higher just misses out on the best climbing.

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