REI Community
Forestland Boulders
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abstraction 
Arrested Development 
Backdoor Ass Attack 
Bad Moon Rising 
Breadline 
Breadline Variation 
Bron-Yr-Aur 
Busted 
Clod-Hopper 
Coffee Cup, The 
Concavity 
Cowardly Lion 
Cruise Control 
Dirty and Deep 
Dredge 
Drill Sargeant, The 
Fedge 
Feel The Pinch 
Fiend it Like a Crack 
Funny and Cheap 
Hearthstone 
Kobe Tai 
Lock and Load 
Lock and Pop 
Lovage 
Marathon Man 
Moondog 
One Summer 
Physical, The 
Power Steering 
Real Thing, The 
Ruminator, The 
Runner 
Scarecrow 
Shield, The 
Silly with an S 
Slickfoot Holiday 
Squeezer 
Street Justice 
Sunny and Steep 
Tahitian Moon 
Toto 
Unsorted Routes:

Lock and Load 

Hueco: V4+ Font: 6B+

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V4+ Font: 6B+ [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 614
Submitted By: ferrells on Jun 9, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

  • Day Use Only/No Campfires MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    So I chose v4+ because this thing gets v4 in the book, and (+) because it is not v4. I mean, maybe it goes at gritty, skin-flaying, enraging v7.
    Start standing on a log, and grab a great jug horn with your right hand. Swing up and left to another good jug. Now pull on, paste your feet on the grainy, exfoliating smears at face height, and rock up onto the painful, gritty slopers 3-4 feet higher. Make sure to tear off all of your skin on these holds, make uncomfortable noises, throw awkwardly to holds that look pretty decent from below, fall off awkwardly, twist your ankle in the logs below, and then, as you are trying to catch yourself, fly backwards and slam your face and hands into the charcoal-covered tree trunk about 6 feet behind the climb. Repeat 2-10 times, or until you have a striking amount of charcoal on your face, and then leave the boulder alone and go climb something else.

    Location 

    Just around the corner to the left of Backdoor Ass Attack.

    Protection 

    More than one pad would be nice.


    Comments on Lock and Load Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Hans Travis
    From: Washington
    May 7, 2017

    The guidebook says starting down and to the left on the nice sloping pinches and using heel hooks to traverse up right to the regular start brings the grade to V6, which seems incredibly soft. If you can do the V4 then this will probably be doable and starting up higher just misses out on the best climbing.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About