REI Community
Loch Vale Gorge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brown Smear? T 
Crystal Meth T 
Free Strike Zone T 
Hydrogen Bondage 
Icy Chim T 
L of Lochluster T 
Lochluster T 
M5? hand crack T 
Mixed Feelings T 
Mixed Left of Mo Flo (aka "Big Girl Pants") T 
Mo' Flo' Than Go T 
Pointlessness T 
R of Lochluster TR 
Replicant (unnamed) TR 
Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack) T 
Rock, Wood, Ice T 



Type:  Trad, Ice
Original: WI3 [details]
FA: unknown
Season: late fall, winter
Page Views: 2,365
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Laura starting Lochluster


This is a moderate line that can be led on the R side of the Loch Vale Gorge area. It can be used to set up TR's for the thin climbs to the R. Inviting, but often thin, this frequently packs more of a mental punch than you might expect for a WI3. In fat conditions, it may be WI2+.

Previously, I had incorrectly labelled a line to the L as Lochluster; however, closer reading of the topo of Gillett's excellent guide suggests this is the line.

Find this line as the most moderate of the far R side of the cliff with a clearly-less-than-vertical ramp going up to a protuberant rock block. Dig out snow to find where the ice exists on this line. Be gentle with the ice as often it is quite thin here. Find fatter ice for screws and gain a stance below the final corner. Ice often peters out here. Move R onto a ledge and traverse R to a 2 bolt anchor. Rappel. 60ft.


Definitely bring stubbies (3-4), 1 medium screw.

Toprope Protection 

Slings off 2 bolt anchor with a directional screw? above.

Photos of Lochluster Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The line is the obvious swath of thin ice cleared ...
The line is the obvious swath of thin ice cleared ...

Comments on Lochluster Add Comment
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By Joe M
From: Beckley, wv
Aug 12, 2007
rating: WI3-

A fun easy climb to warm up on. I liked the route just to the right of this one a lot more, it was more vertical and took a bit more technique.

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