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Loch Vale & uphill

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Central Buttress T 
Cold Storage 
Crypt, The T 
Deep Freeze T 
Dirty Peeps Variation 
Dog House T 
Double Tap T 
Dry Ice T 
Freezer Burn 
Inquisition, The T 
Leftist Activity 
Necrophilia T 
North Face Icefield T 
North Gully 
Northwest Buttress of Powell 
Northwest Face Route - Thatchtop or Northeast Gully? T 
Petit Gully, The T 
Plan D T 
Prise de Fer T 
Quicksilver T 
Sex With A Live Person T 
Sublime Vision T 
Taylor Glacier T 
Timberline Falls T 
Tunnel Vision T 
Upper Wall 
Vanquished (Powell Peak) 
Womb with a View T 

Loch Vale & uphill Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 10,000'
Location: 40.29451, -105.65776 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 26,811
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Apr 13, 2006
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Zowie in the foreground. From left to right, Cathe...


This is a prominent, lower-altitude peak in the Glacier Gorge/Loch Vale vicinity. Given that the routes on this peak are distinct from the lower routes in character and length, we'll create a separate area for this to include the multi-pitch ice/mixed routes for clarity.

All Mixed Up & its neighbors are approached from the left or Mills Lake or southeast side of Thatchtop and are left in the Glacier Gorge area. The Loch Vale Gorge routes near Mixed Feelings are separate and left in the Loch Vale Gorge section. Northwest Face, Deep Freeze, Necrophilia, Vanquished, Womb With a View, The Crypt & their neighbors are approached from the right or Loch Vale or the NW side of Thatchtop. These last routes shall be listed here.

Depending on the snowpack, you may be able to approach these with or without flotation devices.

We could split this into Thatchtop - N side, Powell Peak, Taylor Peak, Loch Vale, & Cathedral Wall...perhaps.


Sex With A Live Person, 5 M4, 1p, 200',
Northwest Face, WI3+, 3p, 600'.
Leftist Activity, WI5 M7, 1p, 100'.
Deep Freeze, WI6 M5 R.
Dry Ice, WI5 M9, 1p.
Necrophilia, WI5 M6, 1-2p, 200'.
Upper Wall, WI5 M5 X, 5p.
Broken Axes, WI5 M5

Double Tap, WI3 M5, 3p, 400'.

Powell Peak:

Plan D, M5, 2p, 350'.
Dirty Peeps Variation, M6 PG-13, 2p.
The Inquisition, IV M6, 4p, 550'.
Vanquished, M6 WI5+, 5p.
North Face Icefield, steep snow/alpine ice, 1000'.
Northwest Buttress of Powell, M6, 4p, 600'.
Thatchtop-Powell Icefield
North Gully, M4, 3p, 1000'.

Taylor Peak:

Taylor Glacier, steep snow, 1200'.
Taylor Glacier Buttress
New Sensations
South Face
South Ridge
Quicksilver, III M3+ steep snow, 1000'.
Unnamed Route, M5? WI5?
Central Buttress, III 5.8 M5 WI5, 11p, 1200'.
East Face Right
Far Right Gully
Left Gully

Alaskarado, III M5, 4p, 800'.

Cathedral Spires:

The Petit Gully, III M5, 6p, 800'.
Prise de Fer, IV 5.7 M5+, 6p, 800'.
Dog House, III M5+, 5p, 600'.

Cathedral Wall:

Womb With A View, M6 WI5, 5p, 800'.
Tunnel Vision, M4+ WI4+ to M6, 5p, 800'.
Sublime Vision IV M7-8, 6p, 800'.

Below Cathedral Wall:

Timberline Falls, WI3, 2p, 100'.

Out right up the Andrews Creek Drainage

Click here for that subarea.

Loch Vale:

Freezer Burn, WI4, 1p, 60'.
Cold Storage, WI4, 1p, 40'.
The Crypt, WI4, 1p, 100'.

Getting There 

Go to the Beaver Meadows entrance to RMNP at the W end of US 36. Go through the entrance. Shortly after the entrance, you turn L on to the Bear Lake Rd. Go to the Glacier Gorge parking area (about 1mi shy of Bear Lake). Park. Hike about 3mi in to the ice taking the climber shortcut up the L side of the drainage after the 2nd bridge. Get to the junction of the trail to Mills Lake (L) & Loch Vale (R). Pick your side. Continue to hike.

Link to Cathedral Wall rock 


Climbing Season

Weather station 9.5 miles from here

29 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Loch Vale & uphill

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Loch Vale & uphill:
Deep Freeze   WI5-6 M5 R     Trad, Mixed, Ice   
Vanquished (Powell Peak)   WI5 M5     Mixed, Ice, 5 pitches, 1000'   
Dog House   M5+     Trad, Mixed, 5 pitches, 600'   
Northwest Face Route - Thatchtop or Northeast Gully?   WI3-4     Trad, Ice, 5 pitches   
Taylor Glacier        Trad, 1200'   
The Petit Gully   M5+     Trad, Mixed, 6 pitches, 800'   
Quicksilver   M3+ R     Trad, Mixed, 1000'   
Necrophilia   WI4-5 M5-6 R     Trad, Mixed, Ice   
Central Buttress   WI5 M6 R     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 11 pitches, 1200'   
The Crypt   WI4     Trad, Ice   
Timberline Falls   WI3     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 100'   
Freezer Burn   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Loch Vale & uphill

Featured Route For Loch Vale & uphill
Rock Climbing Photo: Roy Leggett on the crux of Womb with a View. Photo...

Womb with a View WI5 M6  Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Loch Vale & uphill
This excellent 300 meter route is located on the Cathedral Wall above Loch Vale. To access the route, approach as for The Petit Grepon and Sky Pond. Just before the trail steepens to gain the Glass Lake/Sky Pond cirque, turn right and head towards the Cathedral Wall. Womb w/ a View is the left-most of the two deep clefts splitting the wall. To begin the route, start far left and down of the large tunnel at the bottom of the cleft. The first 200 feet of the route takes the path of least resistanc...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Loch Vale & uphill Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Postholing across the Loch.
Postholing across the Loch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Just below the Loch, the snowshoe trail had diverg...
Just below the Loch, the snowshoe trail had diverg...

Comments on Loch Vale & uphill Add Comment
Show which comments
By Thomas Jensen
Apr 25, 2004
Alpine climbers ALERT: Don't put the tools away just yet! Ice is dripping from everything and there will be more if current conditions persist. Get up to Cathedral Wall area and get creative. Was up in Womb with a View on Saturday 4/24 with Greg Sievers and found good ice and potential routes all over the place. Crypt is still big, as well as a long stairstep route just west of it. Might be a few weeks until North facing routes catch up but there is plenty of new potential on the south facing walls. Just get there early because we were getting showered all day with debris from above. Trail is packed, but bring floatation if you plan to get the the base of anything.
By Edward Corder II
May 10, 2004
I climbed an ice route to the right of Womb with a View about a week ago. It was six pitches of outstanding mixed climbing, the best ice I have ever done in the park. Has anyone heard of this line ever being completed?, if so please let me know. 1,000ft, WI4+, M5.
By Caelan
From: Dysfunctional, CO
Jan 30, 2007
ADMIN: You guys have a long list of climbs under the description of this area. I just added 'Cold Storage' and 'Freezer Burn' (w/ pictures!), so you can add a link to these pages now if you'd like. Just FYI. Cheers! Eds. It was to hopefully inspire others to contribute. It worked! Thanks!

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