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Loch Ness 

WI4 M5

Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Original: WI4 M5 [details]
FA: Scott Krankkala and Clay Meier?
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter
Page Views: 572
Submitted By: Scott Krankkala on May 4, 2014

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Start of the 1st pitch.


A route like this is like the Loch Ness Monster, elusive and ever sought after....
Great second buttress rock, some interesting mixed climbing, and a bit of ice make this a great route close to home.

P1: head up the gully until you hit a short rock step ~25 feet. Climb two more short rock/ice steps to a ledge with a chimney on the left and an OW with a chockstone to the right. Mostly dry tooling with the occasional bit of ice.

P2: climb the OW with the chockstone, good hooks with a bit of ice. Climb the WI4 runnel, rock pro can be found in either side of the slot if the ice is too thin for screws. Continue up this to the top of the buttress.

Descent: walk over to the Journey Through Gwonondaland anchors. Two raps with a 60m will take you to the base.


This elusive gem is hidden on the Second Buttress in Taylor Canyon. The climb was found by chance, so I have no idea if it forms on a regular basis. We climbed it in mid-March. To see the second pitch, hike to the top of the wall that holds the routes Persnickety and the Rogue Repeater. Look towards the gully climber's right of Journey Through Gwondonaland, and you may see some ice in a runnel up high. This route can also be seen about 50 feet upstream of mile marker 8 in Taylor Canyon. If you look towards the second buttress, you should be able to identify the second pitch ice if in. Approach in the gully past Journey and Johnny Rotten.


Single rack of cams, stoppers, short screws, and pins.

Photos of Loch Ness Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Second pitch as seen from the top of the Rogue Rep...
Second pitch as seen from the top of the Rogue Rep...
Rock Climbing Photo: Second pitch ice.
Second pitch ice.
Rock Climbing Photo: Following the second pitch.
Following the second pitch.

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