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Loch Ness Monster 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: R. Hong, M. Lightner, Fish, 1988
Page Views: 2,831
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 9, 2004

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Perplexing footwork on this one... Pic by grk


The obvious sport climb up the rib/roof. Some gear is useful to get to the first bolt. Follow the rib on the left side and traverse below the roof. A few desperate slaps will set you up for pulling the bulge. A hard traverse leads back left. Get a rest and fire up the technical and pumpy finish.


draw, optional gear

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Rock Climbing Photo: Loch Ness, 2012
Loch Ness, 2012
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By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 7, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

"Get a rest and fire up the technical and pumpy finish" - sweet knee lock no hands rest.
By James Yates
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 18, 2013

My friend and I climbed this climb on the morning of Saturday 6/15/13. To make a long story short, we accidentally left a #2 (yellow) BD camalot on the small ledge right below the first bolt. This camalot was not clipped to the rope so upon completing the climb I forgot to clean it. I realized about two hours later that the cam was missing and ran back to bath rock and soloed up to the ledge to find the camalot missing.
If you found this yellow camalot and are in the need of some extra karma points please pm me. I'd really appreciate it.
Sep 1, 2014

This would be a tricky on-sight but easy once you know the movement.
By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Sep 3, 2015

Great climb. Bingham's guide indicates this is on the "elephant's trunk" - indeed, if you look at it with the right perspective, you can see the resemblance. :)

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