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Loch Ness Monster 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Reynolds, Nichol, Cobabe
Page Views: 1,030
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 25, 2004

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He's figured out the move, now he just has to pump...

  • Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Loch Ness Monster is west of Pentapitch, and consists of an edgy slab and a bouldery roof. Figuring out the sequence is half the problem. If a top-rope is desired, the crack system to the left can be climbed or scrambled up, depending on your comfort level.


    2 draws are required for this climb, along with 2 more for the chain anchors. Possibly a piece before and after the bolts. Bring a runner for the lower piece.

    Comments on Loch Ness Monster Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Nathan Fisher
    Aug 8, 2005

    Lead this one again today, and the sequence, which the book isn't accurate about, defintely works right on the undercling above the roof. Still a tough little route.
    By Charlie S
    From: Ogden, UT
    Sep 1, 2014

    Not sure it's worth the effort. Good if you need one more burn after rappelling the buttress, but beyond that, there's not much.
    By Jim Clarke
    From: Cottonwood Heights, UT
    Aug 13, 2017
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Not all that bad if you combine it with Ginseng to the top then rap, pull rope and do Sasquatch as a way to avoid the lines over on Pentapitch...but kinda an in-your-face start for the day...hard stem/pull over to sketchy foot and undercling rail...move fast then slap the upper sloping hand rail.

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