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Loch Lomond

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Loch Lomond Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 10,500'
Location: 39.8328, -105.6771 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,473
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kyle Douglass on Oct 27, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: One of the boulders at Loch Lomond. This one is c...


This area is a nice cirque just west of the town of Alice and St. Mary's Glacier. I have been here a number of times, and it tends to be a secluded area, and most anyone who goes there is there for hiking; I have never seen any climbers, but despite that there is a large abundance of bouldering and single-pitch and multipitch climbs to be done. The rock is pretty sharp and can be rough on the hands. Due to the area being new and in the alpine, it is wise to watch out for rocks.

Getting There 

Take I-70 west to exit 238 (Fall River Road, St. Mary's/Alice), the first exit past the town of Idaho Springs. Go north, and follow this (Fall River Road) up past two sets of switchbacks and then a bit farther into the town of Alice. Go left on Alice Road, a dirt road, and follow this to the top of the hill. On the right there will be a gnarly little four-wheel-drive road called Stewart Road, and a sign stating the distance to Loch Lomond. Since I don't have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, I have walked this road numerous times, but it is highly recommended to drive this road if at all possible. Follow the road until it ends a lake, Loch Lomond. On the south side of the lake, there is a trail headed up to three other lakes, and the cirque of Loch Lomond.

If the gates are closed, you could expect up to an hour approach.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 4.5 miles from here

52 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',21],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Loch Lomond

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Loch Lomond:
Doughy   V3 6A     Boulder, Alpine   Reynolds Lake : Reynolds Boulder
Dada Movement   V4 6B     Boulder, Alpine   Middle Ohman : Art Boulder
A River Runs Through It   V4 6B     Boulder, Alpine   Middle Ohman : A River Runs Through It Bou...
Under Loch and Key   V5 6C     Boulder, Alpine   Lower Ohman : Under Loch and Key Boulder
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Loch Lomond

Featured Route For Loch Lomond
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeremy Jennings on the second ascent of Apollo 11.

Apollo 11 V5 6C  Colorado : Idaho Springs : ... : Moon Boulder
Climb using the seams and holds on the face. Start on the low, square hold with a right hand. Move up on good holds....[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Loch Lomond Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hiking along Loch Lomond on a perfect July day.
Hiking along Loch Lomond on a perfect July day.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ohman Lake.
Ohman Lake.
Rock Climbing Photo: As you approach Loch Lomond, you will pass this bo...
As you approach Loch Lomond, you will pass this bo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Thin fingers on the graffiti strewn boulder close ...
Thin fingers on the graffiti strewn boulder close ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. Bancroft
BETA PHOTO: Mt. Bancroft
Rock Climbing Photo: Loch Lomond. James Peak on the south side of the c...
BETA PHOTO: Loch Lomond. James Peak on the south side of the c...
Rock Climbing Photo: Loch Lomond as viewed from the back of the cirque.
BETA PHOTO: Loch Lomond as viewed from the back of the cirque.

Comments on Loch Lomond Add Comment
Show which comments
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Sep 9, 2014
In my opinion, you can easily make arguments either way. I think it'll be easier to find as you have entered it here.
By Dave Carey
From: Morrison, CO
Oct 8, 2014
I just saw this on my recommended routes and would prefer to see alpine climbing when I am looking in Alpine Rock and think bouldering in the alpine is not alpine climbing. Similarly, I do not think snow climbs are alpine climbs, but who cares? ;) and I wouldn't fight against anyone putting this in that section of course :) just semantics.

Although, this area does look awesome for bouldering, and I want to go check it out! Maybe there are some alpine routes too!

By Andrew Riley
From: Yangon, Myanmar
Feb 12, 2015
Video of some of the boulders we developed here:
By Andy Librande
From: Denver, CO
Jul 9, 2015
WOW! This place is quite awesome. Really enjoyed my day up there and hope that I can visit again soon! Development potential of moderate problems seems to be high. Thanks for the work in adding these areas.

NOTE: Stewart Road is seasonally closed ~0.9 miles from the parking area at Lake Lomond. There is parking up to the gate, but it can get tight. The sign said the road opens July 15th (but I assume that may differ depending on snow for that year). The closure adds ~20 mins of easy/pleasant hiking on the road making it ~40 mins or so to the first boulder on Reynolds Lake.

EDIT: Found the road status page here (google NFSR 701.2):
By joshua deuto
Jul 24, 2016
Hey there guys - my name is Josh (long time climber). I have recently began using mountain project and am interested in connecting with the developers of the Loch Lomond area.... I live literally a few homes away from the start of Stewart Road and have been bouldering in this zone for the past 15 years.... My young son (little crusher comp kid) is also developing up there for the past year or so.... Prob some 'first ascent' overlaps, not that I care, but I'd like to get my son into the mix so he can add his contributions to the area (once I learn how to do that part).
By evan h
From: Denver, CO
Jul 4, 2017
A few thoughts after my first visit:

In general, this place is quite cool and worth a visit, especially for banging out boulders at the moderate grades. It's much more scenic than I expected as well. There are a number of hikers, but we only saw two climbers arriving as we were leaving.

A note on the approach: even if you have a high clearance vehicle, if the gate isn't open (it wasn't yet, early July 2017), you're looking at about 50 minutes of approach to get to Reynolds Lake, and the last 1/3 to half of that is over fairly steep and rocky terrain. You might be faster than us, as my partner and I both carried two pads that were heavy and awkward. Bring more friends and don't do that! The Ohman Boulders would definitely put you at an hour if the gate is closed. If you drive a small vehicle and can't even get to the gate, you're looking at a quite long approach. I just wanted to throw that out there, as neither of us expected much of a strenuous approach.

The problems here are pretty fun, but much could be done to flesh out the descriptions. At a minimum, the use of cardinal directions to indicate which side of the boulder a problem begins would be really helpful, as it's not always obvious.

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