Friends over things, outside over inside. Will you go out with us? #OptOutside — Join Us Outside
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Big Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adventure Punks T 
Arete, The T 
Chenoo T 
Graceful Tiers T 
Happy Ending T 
It's a Good Day to Die T 
Layback Route T 
Locals Only T,S 
Nevermind The Bollocks T 
P.I. Dreams T,S 
Porno Poison Ivy 
Rampage T,S 
Riptide T 
She's Out of Reach T 
Steve Garvey Memorial Route T 
Tree Hugger T 
Wet Lichen Dreams T 

Locals Only 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jonathan Garlough & James Dickson
Page Views: 176
Submitted By: chinos on Jun 11, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Jon Garlough and Chris Magness on Locals Only


Start the same as Never Mind The Bollocks. The route was climbed as one long pitch on the first ascent.
P1: Climb the opening slab past two bolts to the tree ledge with the large pine. Move right and up a short block to gain the overlap (bolt). Make difficult moves to gain the large flake and a bolt. Climb the flake and continue up past another bolt to a ledge with a two bolt anchor. 90’ 5.10a
P2: Climb the flakes and face placing gear to a small pine below the roof. Move up some stacked blocks to a stance (bolt). Move right out the corner/arête on a mild run-out to a piece before you pull through the roof and onto a huge ledge (The Chinos Lounge). Move up one more tier to a two bolt anchor on the summit block. 80’ 5.10a PG


Up on a block right of Wets Lichen Dreams. Same as Nevermind The Bollocks


Bring A Standard Rack

Photos of Locals Only Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon Garlough and Jon (Baldy) on Locals Only. You c...
Jon Garlough and Jon (Baldy) on Locals Only. You c...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lincoln Tetherly on P1 of Locals Only
Lincoln Tetherly on P1 of Locals Only
Rock Climbing Photo: Jonathan Garlough climbs out the roof on Locals On...
Jonathan Garlough climbs out the roof on Locals On...

Comments on Locals Only Add Comment
Show which comments
By chris magness
Jun 23, 2012

The second pitch of this route is one of Longstack's better offerings. The climbing at the crux is somewhat bold, if you can't onsight 5.10 this pitch is not for you.
By John Gassel
From: Boston, MA
Oct 1, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I found the first pitch of this to be quite good.

Nice slab moves at the beginning and end of the pitch. There was a sweet flake and fun roof problem as well. It's possible (although a bit reachy) to pull the roof right at the bolt.

My only complaint from this being a classic pitch is the dirty scramble on the tree ledge after the initial slab. There is also some suspect rock in this section just below the roof, although it's easily avoided.

Can't comment on the second pitch as I've only done the rampage variation so far.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!