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YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Dave Quinn
Page Views: 1,407
Submitted By: David Quinn on Sep 7, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Route starts with short easy face to a small roof, (1st crux) climb right up the left side of the fin, then left out onto face and up past two cruxes, the last just short of anchors.


Line just left of luau


7 protection bolts w\quick links & carabiners on anchors

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By M Sprague
From: New England
Sep 30, 2013

The roof bulge can feel quite awkward and difficult until you figure the beta. The upper face is a lot of fun and pumpy. I remember skipping one of the upper bolts to conserve energy on my redpoint. Snagged the second ascent :)
By James Otey
From: NH
Sep 30, 2013

This has been broken for the last few years, yeah?
By M Sprague
From: New England
Oct 1, 2013

Is it? I hadn't heard that. Possible confusion with Mr. Gerbick? That is just to the left (sharing the same start) and is broken near the top.
By David Quinn
Oct 1, 2013

Do you mean that a hold has broken, Otey? I can't remember any holds on the route that could break. Very solid rock and not flake edges on the route. I will check it out ASAP, been wanting to check the anchors and review the bolts anyhow.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 1, 2013

My understanding was that people haven't been doing it cause they like to stand in line for the same routes everyone else is climbing :P

admittedly i haven't been on it yet either but i don't know why, looks great!...
By S. Neoh
Oct 1, 2013

I hate to say it but ... put a set of project draws on this baby, dust chalk on some key holds, and they will come. Then you will have to fend them off with a stick (clip).
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 1, 2013

haha so true...
By Aaron nietzel
Oct 4, 2013

Did this one today. Had to clean it, as it was really dirty. Looked really good with chalk and draws. Awesome climb! Felt comparable to Butt Bongo Fiesta. Didn't notice any evidence of broken grips.
By David Quinn
Oct 5, 2013

Awesome to hear you got on it Aaron! Thanks for letting us know that the holds are intact. Out of the many routes that I put up in Rumney, this one remains one of my favorites! I too have always thought that it felt comparable to Butt Bongo. I will be putting fixed draws on it for a the remainder of the fall, (soon) and will assess and fully re-clean the route as needed.
Thank again for you input!

By David Quinn
Oct 8, 2013

Hung draws on the route today. I will remove them at the end of the fall season. I also did a bit of cleaning on the "shark's fin" after the roof. Most of the route is pretty clean with the exception of the very bottom, which is like 5.ez so you should be ok there for now. I will return and clean the bottom proper soon. No holds have broken on the route. Have fun!

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