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Local Yokel 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Aaron Rough
Page Views: 1,499
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 8, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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Steve Martin wandering up Local Yokel .8

Closes at dusk, and most parking areas are self-paid MORE INFO >>>


This route heads up the right side of the large rocky outcropping in the middle of the Wreckage Wall.

Climb up the slab to where it meets the outcropping, where liebacks await using feet on the slab. Continue up and left onto the top of the outcropping, where 2 bolts of very easy climbing bring you to the top anchors.

The route that branches off this route to the right is called Howler Monkey (5.10d), heads off the slab to a large roof-like feature.


5 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor, shared with Tail Gate Party (5.7). Bring a couple of slings for the bolts heading around the corner to reduce drag.

Photos of Local Yokel Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Local Yokel stays left of the obvious roof feature
BETA PHOTO: Local Yokel stays left of the obvious roof feature
Rock Climbing Photo: Local Yokel
Local Yokel
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve Martin wandering up Local Yokel .8
Steve Martin wandering up Local Yokel .8

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By Nukem
From: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Sep 6, 2012

this may be the dirt and plant covered route i have ever climbed, it literally could use a weed wacker to get rid of the thorny plants on it
By Rough
Sep 7, 2012

That sucks to hear as this route used to be spotless. Oh well, nothing some elbow grease won't fix! I bolted it on lead as it was the 1st route established on the Wreckage Wall. In a clean state, it is a great route. I plan on doing route maintenance on all of my routes (most of them out there) once we get the rig open.
By Nukem
From: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Sep 7, 2012

me and my bud have been doing alot already, even though it hasnt been opened yet but so far we have only lightly cleaned a few in horseshoe canyon and added quick links for lowering on a couple of the routes. a chunk about the size of my head is very loose on creepshow i marked with and big X so if you are climbing that be careful because for me it was a obvious hold.
By Kelley Gilleran
From: Sacramento, Ca
Mar 8, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Route is clean. Definitely better than tailgate party. Probably a better first lead due to the choss on tailgate.
By Boriss
From: Sacramento
Apr 5, 2014

I lead the route today and its probably one of the funnest 5.8 climbs in the area. I cleaned it a bit too along with Tailgate Party to the left.
By jgfox
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 22, 2015

The flakes near the second bolt seemed loose, one of them looks to be a pretty big chunk and could blow if a climber puts too much force on it.
By Joshua Wise
From: Mountain View, CA
Feb 16, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Super duper chossy when I did it today. Be very careful of loose rock. (I got smacked by a bunch of rockfall from my climber.)
By Max Rausch
From: Monterey, California
Jan 30, 2017

Led this in my evolv cruisers as a warm up. EXTREME CHOSS. Multiple flakes by the second and third bolt are ready to go. Avoid this and climb something else.
By Colton
From: Folsom, CA
Mar 30, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

I did not want to give this an "avoid" rating, but some of the lower section (trending right of bolts one, two, and three) contain rock that is exfoliating. These textbook-sized jugs lend to the 5.8 rating and will eventually break off under full body weight. Wear a helmet.

For the new 5.8 leader, be aware that most falls will contact a ledge or send you tumbling down blocky, low-angle stuff.

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