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Local Knowledge 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Andy Fitz, Ed Mosshart, April 1988
Page Views: 155
Submitted By: geoff georges on Feb 25, 2014

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

I was surprised to not already see this listed here. The crux is the thin portion below the ledge near the top of the 1st pitch.As with any thin crack/face conditions can help or hinder progress, cooler temps help here.

2nd pitch is 5.9, which is described as being one of the best in the state. Inca Roads is way better imo.That 5.9 crack is sharp and ragged, may want taped up fingers.
IMHO both pitches could be 10a.

Location 

A little hard to describe. It is on the left end of the prow before heading around to the north end. The 10a- Introductory is just down the slope on the left. The 10a- Mystery Walk on the right is a double crack start and the 2nd pitch of it is a chimney 2 columns to the right of LK.
The lower wall of the prow is not too steep, but this route is thin.
Also you may see the anchor at top of 1st pitch of Stone Archer, the 10c crack that is 3 cracks right of LK.
Look for the bright yellow face with the thin crack splitting it on the 2nd pitch.

Protection 

gear to 3". Lots of small gear for 1st pitch, and 2nd pitch.
The descent is convoluted any way you go (would be nice to have a bolted anchor). Next anchor to your right is single bolt and piton, 3 raps with 60m, 2 with 70m rope. next anchor right is MX, 70m rope rap to ledge. Ed's Jam is the same, but there is a newer mid way anchor, can rap to ground.


Comments on Local Knowledge Add Comment
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By Erroneous Publicus
Jul 30, 2015

Do this as a single pitch. Classic!
By JimM
Aug 21, 2015

I agree. Do this as one pitch. As for the descent, yes it would be convenient to have rap anchors on it, but it is one of the few trad routes at The Bend that you still have to build your own anchors on. It's a pure trad climb. I've talked with Andy and Ed (the first ascensionists) about this too.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Aug 21, 2015

Jim, thanks for the info. next route right is fine for rap.- it is a piton, 1 ancient bolt, 1 good bolt.
70m rope gets you to top of 1st pitch, I cleaned old slings, replaced with one good one- spring of 2016.

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