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Local Boys Do Good 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: P1: Smith & Turley - 1982
P2 & 3: Atkinson, Hart, & Austrom - 1984
Page Views: 4,705
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 11, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Local Boys Do Good Topo Pitch 1


Local Boys Do Good is an excellent slab climb up a relatively featured swath of rock. Begin ten feet left of the obvious Klahanie Crack.

P1: Ascend the dike past several bolts before stepping left to a hanging belay. 5.10b.

P2: Negotiate a well-bolted, steep bulge (crux), then continue up easier climbing to another hanging belay. 5.11a.

P3: Climb up the easier and slightly less-travelled slab to a final anchor. Two bolts, 5.10a PG13.

Rap the route.


Quickdraws only.

Photos of Local Boys Do Good Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the last pitch of Local Boys Do ...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the last pitch of Local Boys Do ...
Rock Climbing Photo: At the end of the run out traverse on the first pi...
At the end of the run out traverse on the first pi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Following the first pitch.
Following the first pitch.

Comments on Local Boys Do Good Add Comment
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By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Apr 30, 2007

This is a great climb, but not to be mistaken for a sport climb despite the gear list. The first pitch is often done on its own, and as such it's probably a 10b sport climb with bigger gaps between bolts than usual, but it's a shame to miss the rest. The remaining two pitches are considerably more runout, although the crux on P2 is well protected.

I believe there was a photo of this climb one edition of one of John Long's books and the caption referenced it as an example of runout climbing. Can anyone confirm that and clarify where I saw this?
By Wolf Eilers
Sep 11, 2007

There is a photo of "Local Boys" in John Long's Sport Climbing 3rd edition. It is featured in the slab climbing chapter within the Harrowing Runout section.

I love this climb and have led the first and second pitches several times but the third runout pitch only once. (But the memory will last a life time!)

By the way, the 3rd pitch is protected by a single bolt. The second bolt (if I remember correctly) is off the belay to prevent a fall directly onto the belay.
By Monica Jones
From: Bishop, CA
Jul 21, 2010

Awesome route. I had a really hard time getting off the ground though! My boyfriend led the first pitch and then I took off on lead for the second and third pitch. I linked these since it required so little gear and because once I got started, I was so in the zone that I wanted to push it for the top. Felt like a gecko scaling a blank wall! So cool. A must do.
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Aug 12, 2013

If you're looking to simply climb the first pitch the crux is just getting to the first bolt. After you've gotten to the two nubs 8ft up the remaining is in the low 10 grade.
By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Jun 17, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

Finally managed to get on this route. Bold and fun.

P1 - Hard getting to the first bolt, slid down the rock a couple of times doing that. After the first bolt it eases off, though there are some places you don't want to fall
P2 - Fun slab climbing! Bolted well enough and pretty enjoyable.
P3 - I'd recommend linking P2 and P3. It's not like you are going to run out of gear! Reduces the fall factor and the difficulty of P3 lies right off the belay. Once you get halfway to the first bolt the climbing gets easier and easier. That being said... Don't fall.

Descent - We managed to rappel from the top straight to the ground with 2x 70m ropes. Speedy!

Really happy to have led this route and even happier I did not fall in certain spots. Pretty great as a slab climb, though I'll probably never do it again.
By Fan Zhang
From: Washington, DC
Aug 17, 2016

I'm not a very bold or good climber, and only did the first pitch, so take this observation for what it's worth. But on pitch 1, I found the traverse left from the 3rd bolt to the 4th bolt to be run out and scary. One of my climbing partners took a bad fall half way across this traverse and tweaked her ankle. Have others experienced or heard of similar bad falls at this spot, or have beta for getting past it?

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