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El Tonto
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Lobo Blanco T 

Lobo Blanco 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 190'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Piola, Hopfgartner, 1990
Page Views: 22
Submitted By: Neil Longfellow on Apr 25, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Looking at Tonto from the Refugio, the line is Lob...

Description 

This route offers fun technical face climbing that is sustained until you pull over the lip onto the upper slab on P2. Probably not quite a 3 star route, if it was sustained all the way to the top it would be, but certainly worth doing if you've exhausted other options close to the refugio.

P1: Start at the north end of the east face next to a drop off on the right at a bolt. Thin face moves bring you up and left. The route goes left of the bulge and is 6b, but you can do a variation through the bulge at 6b+ called "Que me aguante el prusik (FA Teo, retrobolted)" that is quite good. After this bulge there is a 2 bolt anchor.

P2: head up jugs past 3 bolts (5+ or 6a I think) to the slab and walk up to the top to a bolted anchor.

Double 60m ropes reached the ground fine, I imagine 2 raps with a 60 would not be a problem but I cannot say for sure.

Protection 

Mostly bolts, which is adequate but not generous, and some opportunities for gear, mostly small.


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