REI Community
Loafer's Choice Slab
Select Route:
Dead Meat T 
Loafer's Choice S 
Random Toprope 47 TR 

Loafer's Choice 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: John Ficker, Jim Zahn. Jim Waugh. Glen Dickinson, 1979
Page Views: 1,586
Submitted By: Brian Boyd on Sep 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Mid Route, Loafers Choice.


Sustained slab climbing on small edges. Unlike many of the nearby routes, you can walk to the top to set up a TR.


Four bolts to the traditional finish, which is a no-anchor belay in the hole. Alternately, you can climb past an additional bolt to a set of anchors at the very top. Long runners helpful if toproping. Bad fall potential getting to the first bolt; small gear can be used to protect the start.

Comments on Loafer's Choice Add Comment
Show which comments
By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Dec 6, 2009

Fun climb, rating feels soft for Pinnacle. Well-bolted with lots of good rests.

The two anchor bolts at top can be easily reinforced with a couple medium cams.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 28, 2010

I vote solid for the grade. I thought it was soft, but that was the first time I led it and weenied off rightwards to the arete. I looked at the direct finish and rationalized to myself "that doesn't look too hard, I'll just take the way that seems less runout". However, a friend's whippers on the direct finish the other day inspired me to keep going straight up, and that, my friends, is where the business of the route is. Right off the fourth bolt, there are several good slab cruxes and you start looking at a little air time on moves you wish you had a jug to pull on.

Fun route and a little run out at the top despite the retrobolting.
By Anthony Miklas
From: Phoenix , Arizona
Dec 4, 2015

Sustained, and with lots of fun movement
By walmongr
From: Gilbert AZ
Dec 31, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fairly new Glue in's at the top make this easy to set up a nice TR if you don't want to lead. You can make it harder by staying left of the bolts or easier by bailing out right near the arete.
By Tim Heid
From: AZ
May 25, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This is a must do if in the area. Agreed that it felt a tad soft for PP. Getting to the 1st bolt is very easy, but a fall before clipping it would suck.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About