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Unsorted Routes:

Loaf and Jug 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Stewart Green and Martha Morris
Page Views: 1,023
Submitted By: Julian Smith on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Loaf and Jug follows the crack on the left side of...

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This route is situated roughly in the middle of the wall, ascending a slab to the left side of a large roof. Near the top is a surprise move with gear below your feet. Overall, this route is worth doing as a warm-up for the other fine routes at this crag, but not necessarily worth going to climb it all by itself.


Standard rack including stoppers and camming units.

Photos of Loaf and Jug Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Loaf and Jug goes up the slab to the left of the b...
BETA PHOTO: Loaf and Jug goes up the slab to the left of the b...

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By Larry Shaw
Jun 15, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Easy climbing to a high step finish...very short.
By Blazer
From: Salida, CO
Jul 7, 2011

Falcon guidebook rates this as "popular and fun" - didn't think this was a good one for the first time leader - pro was not great - had to clean a bunch of dirt out of cracks - although the climbing was relatively easy until you hit a polished section with a lot of exposure and had to make a desperate move for a sloper. High step finish brings you to a ledge with a bunch of sand and loose stones. Better to top rope off the bolts that are easily accessed from the top.
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 16, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The move at the top is a surprise - at least 5.9 (UK 5a/b) in my opinion - the rest of the climbing is about 5.5 so the grade of 5.7 only makes sense if you take an average!
By Robert Chappe
Jun 18, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I don't think this is good for new trad leaders. The beginning is easy enough, with jugs and decent pro, but once you gain the slab, the cracks are filled with dirt and vegetation, with 1 maybe 2 really sketchy pieces.

Would not recommend to anyone.

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