REI Community
Mid Cliffs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
409 T,TR 
Ajax S 
Almer Casile Memorial Buttress S 
Arrow, The T 
Bad Ethics S 
Boulder Holder T 
Bwana the Mighty Metolious Hunter S 
Chicken Wings T,S 
Fat Ankles S,TR 
Father, The T 
Heat Miser S 
In Vitro S 
In Vivo S 
Kip to a Handstand S 
Little Boots T 
Little Flower T,TR 
Loaded Gun T 
Lucky Pierre S 
More Than I Can Chew S 
Nash-e-mun S 
Nikita T 
Number Nine T 
Nut 'n a Sling T 
Orientationally Confused T 
Potato Flake T 
Prominent Crack T 
Puffer, The S 
Rectal Cranial Insertion T 
Snake Eyes S 
Spear, The T 
Steep Disorder T,TR 
Sugar Magnolia T 
Swallow S 
Sweat Engine S 
Tidy Up S 
Wizard's Sleeve S 

Loaded Gun 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Season: All day sun
Page Views: 287
Submitted By: CHopwood on Aug 2, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The route. Tidy Up (with three bolts) on the left...

Seasonal Raptor Closures.

Description 

Climber's left side of the Mid Cliffs. Climb the hand sized crack right of Tidy Up, to shared anchors. Starts on obvious belay platform. See picture.

Protection 

Standard rack to chains


Comments on Loaded Gun Add Comment
Show which comments
By Russell Fogle
From: Boise, ID
Jan 1, 2015

This crack is loaded with pigeons and and a large amount of their feces, avoid unless you bring a respirator and hand sanitizer!
By Petsfed
From: Laramie, WY
May 10, 2015

Didn't have too much trouble with feces, but there was the beginnings of a nest when I did it the other day.
The offwidth at the top can look intimidating, but there's a crack inside (climber's left) that takes hand-sized pro pretty easily. Largest I placed was an old-style #3.5 camalot (~#4 friend/new style C4). Fortunately, the crux is the finger-crack down low, and there are plenty of holds, rather than just jams, to make that section go.
There's a seriously loose and flexing flake to the right during that offwidth section that isn't long for this world. Definitely keep the rope out of the fall zone, and put a helmet on the belayer!
By Joshua Benjamin
From: Nampa, Idaho
Mar 12, 2017

Didn't really have any issues with bird shit on this one. I thought it was good for the grade. Gear up to 1", with perhaps a #2 before the offwidth section up top. There's also a small vertical crack in the OW that I managed to place a very small offset cam.
By max huecksteadt
From: Boise ID
Mar 22, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I didn't want a pigeon shit thrutch up top (nor did I think I had the gear), so I traversed over to the last bolt of Tidy Up, which was a fun way to finish.
I don't know what its rated this way, maybe 5.9?
I didn't have any extending draws and didn't have a problem, but they might help if you finish this way.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About