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Entering the crux.
Start on far right, climb the easy shallow alcove to the large black bulge and the crux moves. Finish up easy terrain. Basically it's a V7 on a 5.7 route
By Blake Allen Green
Jul 14, 2012
The crux of this route is hardly v7. It's v5 at the absolute most. This would definitely be a better route if the rock were better after the crux, but for more power oriented climbers this pitch would be one of the better ones for the grade at smith. There are no tweaky nubbins here. Also, the move going into the "strenuous clip" will feel harder for anyone shorter than 5'9"
By Tom Holschuh
Jun 27, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I agree with the v5 grade for the boulder problem and for the strenuous clip feeling hard for 5'9" (I'm 5'8"). The boulder sequence is definitely powerful but also tricky to figure out if you are trying to onsight the route.