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Làjiāo 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Eric Walden (Mattie Cedar), Jeff Tarshis (Froggy Lockwood), and Aaron Stireman (Oreo Johnson)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 152
Submitted By: Serial Crusher on Nov 28, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Topo from Faraway.

Description 

A fantastic corner route with thin edging and technical sequential moves. Some of the gear is tiny but it's locker. When the crack really thins down to nothing, theres a bolt to clip. This route is downright amazing whether you are the seasoned leader or just getting into corner climbing. It really doesn't get any better than this. Techy, splitter, airy.

Location 

Just left and uphill of The Raven. Follow a thin trail up some beaten steps to the top of the gully. This is the same gully start as for the Black Hole, except head to the top of the gully up some steeper terrain. Look for the fixed batman rope with knots in it and pull yourself up to get to the base of the route. A big roof should be overhead about 250 feet above you.

Protection 

Thinner but bomber gear in the start, then clip 3 brand new shiny 1/2 cobra bolts up to a new 2 bolt anchor. Better bring all the small stuff and a standard rack up to #3. 2 belay bolts at the bottom for comfort and ease.


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