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Wrinked Rock
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A Wrinkle In Time S 
Double Chin S 
Lizzy Beams Desire S 
Wrinkled Rock 5.8 Variation T 
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Lizzy Beams Desire 

YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a PG13 [details]
FA: Todd Skinner - 1989
Page Views: 80
Submitted By: Cameron Luth on Mar 24, 2007

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Description 

This route is a "sporty" lead and quite a historical benchmark for Rushmore. Bolts are well spaced.This route follows an orange streak to a six-inch bulge. Cooler temps may help. It is said that Todd Skinner climbed this route on a mid 50 degree day. This route has yet to see a Second Ascent. It was given the grade of 13d/14a.


Location 

Once you find wrinkled rock, this route is the third route from the east on the south side across from a big roof.

Protection 

4 bolts


Comments on Lizzy Beams Desire Add Comment
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By Greg Parker
Administrator
Mar 27, 2007

Are you implying that you redpointed this route?
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 28, 2007

I also don't believe the big numbers. It is very difficult to believe them when you have only posted photos and specific information about routes in the 5.9 and under range, and you post very vague or wrong information about routes in the 5.12-5.14 range.

If you are going to post routes like Lizzy Beam's Desire, you should include photos, specifics, and at least write up a route description that you can be proud of. I agree with Brent and Greg in that every route description you've written up has been worthless - vague, poor or just wrong information, tons of typos, etc.

If you want to post up a route like Lizzy Beam's Desire, rise to the challenge of making the route entry worthy. Otherwise, let the line speak for itself and leave it be.
By Cameron Luth
Mar 29, 2007

I dont get caught up in big numbers, i just see a line i like and want to climb it. Simple as that. Yes sometimes I ask how hard a route is, but its because sometimes i get curious and dont feel like getting my but kicked that day. To me all that numbering system does is make some sound better than others. I dont believe in that because we are all equal, and it evens out somehow. I dont claim to be a better climber than anyone else or in any other way for that matter.
By Greg Parker
Administrator
Mar 29, 2007

I actually removed my earlier comment, because after re-reading it, I felt like it came across as an attack on Cameron. I didn't want that. Cameron, you are young and really psyched on climbing. I can respect and identify with that. To want to get on every line that inspires you is understandable. Unfortunately, climbing just doesn't work that way. I'm very inspired by Sharma's Realization (15a), but that does not mean I'm going to recruit a belayer to hold my rope while I flail all over it.
Trying a route that is over your head every once in a while is fun and it gives you something to strive for. But, if that is all you do and don't enjoy the successes and gratification that come with redpointing routes within your ability, you are going to get burnt out or injured fairly quickly.
There are no rules in climbing and you can do whatever you want, but you have to understand that if you post comments like those above, people are going to question your honesty and motivation.