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Lizzard With a View S 
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Unsorted Routes:

Lizzard With a View 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Brian Mullin
Season: Spring though Fall
Page Views: 248
Submitted By: Pringle on Jan 22, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: The route.

Description 

Black is beautiful. Climb the dark, vertical to overhanging wall past 10 or so clips. The difficulties come quickly (at the 2nd bolt), but the pitch is engaging all the way to the anchors.

Note: you can cheat the crux on the right with some offwidth debauchery... drops the grade to .10d or so. Still a stellar line.

Location 

This route is a little removed by Shelf standards. From the old Gallery parking area, follow the well worn trail toward the Far Side. After you reach the cliffs, continue north for a few minutes until it's possible to scramble up onto a comfortable ledge about twenty feet up off the trail. At the southernmost end of this terrace, you'll find a stunning black panel and one of Shelf's best kept secrets. Enjoy.

Per Stevenstrangeways Hurd: this is the first route on Lizard Ledge.

Protection 

~10 quickdraws and something for the anchors.


Photos of Lizzard With a View Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: North-facing, black rock with cold shut bolts.
BETA PHOTO: North-facing, black rock with cold shut bolts.

Comments on Lizzard With a View Add Comment
Show which comments
By slim
Administrator
Jan 22, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Nice addition, Pringle. This is, indeed, a great route on great rock. A good one to do in warm/hot weather as it is in the shade. I thought there were 3 cruxes on this route; 2nd bolt, the bulge, and then a slab crux of sorts near the top.
By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Mar 22, 2015

Obviously jumping into the crack or climbing the other wall would be a different route, but there is one or two spots where throwing a quick stem seems natural and to not do so would make the route a bit contrived. Still felt like 11a/11b that way. Fun line.
By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
Apr 25, 2016
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Amazing climb! Continuous moves on solid stone, there are good shake outs between the harder sections. Don't miss it if you are in the area.

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