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Lizard Marmalade Direct 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 135'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: John Steiger, Ray Ringle
Page Views: 5,966
Submitted By: WSnyder on Mar 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Geir Hundal placing pro on this long climb


One of the best trad pitches on the mountain and a must do. The gear placements are there but may not be right where you want them which provides for a real thrill.


Right and downhill from the sport climbs at the left of crag. Up the large left-facing dihedral w/cracks, take the smaller crack almost straight up and slightly right at ~15-20 feet. Down-climb tree off the backside of the formation to get down (if is it still there).



Photos of Lizard Marmalade Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: That was a super fun climb!! I love Mt Lemmon!!! M...
That was a super fun climb!! I love Mt Lemmon!!! M...
Rock Climbing Photo: The line to the right of the chimney, all the way ...
The line to the right of the chimney, all the way ...
Rock Climbing Photo: A classic frightener - and that's just the down cl...
A classic frightener - and that's just the down cl...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 18, 2016
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 10, 2007

Memorable route, and memorable route name!
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 12, 2009

This climb is fantastic; it is perhaps the best single pitch climb on Mount Lemmon! Doubles of small cams are helpful on this one if you'd like a lot of pro.
By Bladrey Chan
Apr 12, 2009

there is also a set of anchors on the east side of the tower to rap from. be careful accessing them as they are on a sloping ledge. nothing too scary, but it wouldn't be fun to slip.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Dec 5, 2009

You can rap off the belay bolts too (into the gully w the trees).
A bit of a hard pull to get the rope back but that's about it.

P.S. Please don't take the biner left on the anchor, it's there for community use.
By MattB
Jan 14, 2010

The tree is doing well, looks better than 10 years ago... it's pretty easy to use a rope through the anchors to help get into the tree, then pull when still high in it(saving lots of rope wear). Mondo Classic route!!
By Ben Venter
From: Lander, WY
Mar 5, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

One of the best routes in Southern Arizona for sure. A few exciting thin moves in the middle to a steep, juggy and interesting finish. Engaging to the last move. Double cams from tips sized to thin hands did not feel excessive. Single 1, 2 and 3 camalot and a set of nuts. A little spicy in the middle but the good placements are there. The downclimb into the tree was exciting but quite secure.
By Jimbo
May 6, 2014

I've always thought we should install an actual rap from this thing before someone snaps off a limb from that tired tree we all down climb. That tree is definitely showing signs of abuse. It's not nearly as healthy as it was in 1996 the first time I did LMD.
By Cocanower
From: The High Country
Nov 17, 2014

sandbag at 10+ maybe.
By jaspur Chafer
From: tucson,az
Jan 22, 2016
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

What a great line. Thx to Andy B, Canada and the asca there is now a rap setup so you don't have to down climb the tree. Go get on it. Congrats to joe silver on sending today. Awesome to follow and get a free preview. Can't wait to get on it. Nuts, Doubles .3-.75 single red c3, 1c4 and 2c4 seemed adequate

After leading a bunch my rack changed some
1X black and blue totem (red-yellow c3)
Doubles yellow totem (.4 c4)-orange totem(2 c4)
Triple green c4
Dmm offset nuts including the biggest brassie #6
Extra blue grey and turquoise offsets
It's a little excessive but makes me feel good
By Steven Amter
Mar 17, 2016

On the wall of my orthopedic surgeon's office (in Chevy Chase, MD) there is a giant 80's vintage photo of Brad Smith (I think) on LMD. Classic route!
By Andy Bennett
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 18, 2016

It is just possible to rap off from the new anchor with a 70m rope, but DEFINITELY tie knots in the end (when do you ever not do this, right?) and keep a watchful eye as you descend. You'll probably end up at the end of your line on top of or just above the little pedestal at the start of the route. Make sure that your rope is in front of the tree branches before you start rapping, or it'll be hard to pull...

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