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(9) East End Formation
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arete, The TR 
Introductory Offer T 
Lizard Locks T 
Monkey Moves  T 
Pin, The T 
Silverdycke T 
Trembling, The T 

Lizard Locks 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bill Coe, Jim Opdycke, Ujahn Davisson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 83
Submitted By: adam winslow on Aug 19, 2010

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Bill Coe leading the FA of Lizard Locks Jim Opdyck...

Description 

This is the obvious crack near the Eastern side of the wall. The start, shared by Introductory Offer, is 3 stacked blocks at head height in between 2 shallow caves. This is the opening sequence to both routes. One strategy, employed on the FA, was to boulder the loose looking lumpy blocks for 12' (and which may in fact not be there, but on the ground or down the hill somewhere when you get there), step left 5-7 feet and then up, waiting until you're @20' off the deck and looking at a bad, testicular shrinking, fern crushing fall to place your first pro at the base of the obvious crack with a #3 friend as the first piece so that your pieces align and do not cause rope drag. Another #3 or 3-1/2" cam will avoid a highball fall and protect the move to get to the crack if you are so inclined. Small cams to 1" will get you up the solid finger and hand locks. Say hi to the Northern Alligator Lizard if he hasn't moved on yet which had casually wandered over, and stared at the first ascentionist as he cruised past. Strangly, the Lizard allowed himself to be touched as if he had actually wandered over to have his back scratched. Head up past a small 2" diameter tree growing right out of the crack; try not to break off this handhold/foothold /asscheek rest and finish up and slightly to the right of the buttress and then on easier moves directly to the huge fir with the rap anchor on it. Rap off the fir.

Protection 

Standard rack with double 3" to 3 1/2" cams and small cams to 1". On second thought, after reading the description, maybe you should go climb something else.


Photos of Lizard Locks Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jim Opdycke following Fa of Lizard Locks (Photo Uj...
Jim Opdycke following Fa of Lizard Locks (Photo Uj...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ascends the crack in the center of the photo.
BETA PHOTO: Ascends the crack in the center of the photo.

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