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Lizard King 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Erik Kubiak (I think? Or Mike Orr?)
Page Views: 204
Submitted By: Drewsky on Aug 13, 2012

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What could possibly be better than climbing Chronic? How about climbing past two more anchors above the top of Chronic for a 40+ meter pitch? While the 25 feet of climbing to the second anchor (AKA Lizard Prince; shares the anchor with Illness/Extended Illness) adds little in the way of difficulty, the 50 or so feet to the third anchor contains a couple of potent cruxes. It is also possible to approach the top via Extended Illness (or, if you want it to be even harder, Extended Evil!). Confusing? Go climb them all and sort out the details! They're worth it! I can't remember if this is Lizard King or Lizard Queen; I guess we'll stick with the Jim Morrison reference until someone can clarify. As with many of the routes here, I'm not really sure who climbed it first.


Start on Chronic and keep going up until the bolts stop. Descent is with a 70m cord and requires you to pull the rope through at one of the two lower anchors. Tie knots in the end just in case!


Bolts. You will need 5 quickdraws for the very top part as it isn't fixed. Anchors on top may or may not have lowering hardware so bring your least favorite leaver biners along just in case.

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By Ben Gilkison
Jan 30, 2014

I think consensus is 13b/c.

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