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Lizard King Arete 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: John Walker
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 626
Submitted By: john walker on May 20, 2004

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Lizard King Arete is located left of Somewhere East of Fresno and Uff Da-hedral, look for the striking arete with bolts directly left of a very blank face. Easy opening moves on bolts and gear lead to a 5.10 crack system. Climb onto the arete and be the Lizard King.........


Start by clipping a few bolts that protect the opening moves, place some small Stoppers and cams after that. Move up to fist crack where #1,2,3 Camalots protect well, use slings to prevent rope drag. You can clip the first bolt on the arete with gear at your waist. Climb onto the arete and clip bolts to the fixed anchor.

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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 16, 2004

11 quickdraws will constitute a rack for this route.A must do.
By johnnie walker
Oct 9, 2008

Who added bolts to a route that Brent Kurtzman and I put up, "top down, of course"? What sort of unethical, dolt o matic would do such a thing. Oh well, maybe it's safer and who wants to carry all that climber stuff around anyway. Still a must do, maybe.
By DanielJames
From: Custer, SD
Aug 24, 2017

You don't need any gear anymore, even though it should be a mixed route. Ridiculous that someone added bolts at the bottom which is both much easier and would be super easily protected.

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