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Lizard's Hangout
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alligator Lizard T 
Chicken Lizard T 
Goeb's Goes Gecko T,TR 
Left Lizard Crack T 
Lizard Breath Arden (aka Lizard Robbins) T 
Lizard In Bondage (aka False Cilley Toprope) T 
Lizard Skin (aka Blue Belly) T 
Lizard Taylor T 
Off to See the Lizard (aka Komodo Dragon) T 
Poodle Lizard T 
Progressive Lizard T 
Right Lizard Crack T 

Lizard In Bondage (aka False Cilley Toprope) 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 96
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 27, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Lizard In Bondage

Description 

I saw a lot of people tossing themselves at this climb multiple times over the course of an afternoon at Lizard Rock, and amusingly enough, all at different places on the route. The position of the crux will depend upon your climbing strengths and weaknesses.

On the SW face, find a obtuse, rounded corner with a flake just to the left of the bottom of it. This lies 3-4 meters left of the Left Lizard Crack and 1 meter right of Progressive Lizard.

Climb up onto the flake on the left and reach the crack system right. Continue up, eventually going right out of the very shallow corner onto a face, which soon becomes lower angle. Alternatively, we also have climbed up further, continuing in the crack a little longer to the top (same grade). [Edit - This route is the same as the False Cilley Toprope (page 31, Bartlett guide). The boulder start is the crux, while starting on Progressive Lizard to the leftand cutting over makes this 5.10a.]

Protection 

thin to 1.5"


Comments on Lizard In Bondage (aka False Cilley Toprope) Add Comment
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By Murf
Apr 4, 2005
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Can't quite interpret TB's description above. I started squarely under the intermittent crack and slid off about a dozen times before finding a combination that worked. Continued up through the pod and exited left. If the landing was bad, I might gives this a 's', but with a very clean landing, it would be hard to get into trouble on this route.

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