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Lizard Head Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Day At The Office T 
Blue Collar Crack T 
Cashmere Crack T 
Delicacy T 
Errant Edge T 
King Lizard T 
Life of the Party T 
Manager's Special T 
Maverick Line T,TR 
Part Time Crack T 
Red Neck Slab T 
Squeeze My Lemon T 
Unknown Slab T 
Unknown Slab/Crack T 
Wings of Perception T 
Zesty T 
Zigzag T 
Unsorted Routes:

Lizard Head Wall Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.5733, -111.7596 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,821
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Rob Hyldahl on May 10, 2006


44° | 32°

42° | 31°

46° | 34°

54° | 39°

56° | 38°
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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


The south facing wall that lies between the Altered States Gully and The Fin. Although lacking in shear quantity of climbs, this wall does offer the climber a couple quality crack lines as well as an absolutely delightful slab climb. You will almost certainly be guaranteed solitude as well.

Getting There 

We followed the approch to Altered States Gully which included finding a cairn about 100 feet to the east of the church archives road. The cairn marks a good trail that puts you high in the gully. We then dropped down the gully until an westward traverse can be made to the next south-facing wall. This is it.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.3 miles from here

18 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lizard Head Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lizard Head Wall:
Squeeze My Lemon   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Zesty   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Blue Collar Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 185'   
Unknown Slab/Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
Errant Edge   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Delicacy   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Zigzag   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Cashmere Crack   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lizard Head Wall

Featured Route For Lizard Head Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Late season Lemon Squeezing.

Squeeze My Lemon 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Lizard Head Wall
As you approach Lizard Head Wall, this climb is the obvious vegetated splitter hand crack located on the east side of the wall. Start in the bushes on a right slanting ledge that gains a flaring splitter crack. Fire up this, surmounting the large foliage to a beautiful hands splitter. Continue following this crack until it trends left and runs out. Make a step left into a short dihedral guessed it......great hands again. Follow this to a tree anchor. Descend the route easily ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Lizard Head Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Boulder on the way to the Lizard Head Buttress
Boulder on the way to the Lizard Head Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Try these on for size.
Try these on for size.
Rock Climbing Photo: Zigzag area with lines. The first pitch (only the ...
BETA PHOTO: Zigzag area with lines. The first pitch (only the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lizard head buttress without route lines drawn in
BETA PHOTO: Lizard head buttress without route lines drawn in
Rock Climbing Photo: 1. Part Time Crack 5.5 2. Blue Collar Crack 5.9+ 3...
BETA PHOTO: 1. Part Time Crack 5.5 2. Blue Collar Crack 5.9+ 3...

Comments on Lizard Head Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sunny-D
From: SLC, Utah
Jun 12, 2008
There is a better trail that follows the fin approach trail. 50-ish feet from the road cut left by a carn. Follow the trail through the woods. When you come to a big opening with a boulder sitting in the middle of it follow a faint trail, on the west side of the boulder, up the hill through an opening and up to the base of the climbs. 10 minute approach tops. As of right now there are 9 climbs that I know of in this area. 5.5 to 5.11b/c
By tenesmus
Jun 30, 2008
For those wanting to find a good place to tr some routes this is for you. You can scramble to the right of the butress and back to its top via a ramp system that offers amazing views of Altered States gully. From there head east to the anchor of Redneck slab to tr that and a short rap to the second pitch belay of Blue Collar crack with the faces to either side.

If you go west you can belay (behind a block) your partner as they do the easy 5th class down climb to the anchors of King Lizard to TR that.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jul 29, 2009
There is an insane OW around the right of Errant Edge, facing East. I belayed Tristan H. on a very gallant attempt that ended on the main overhanging OW. I know some other guys worked on it later the same day. Does anyone have any knowledge about this line? It seems impossible that such and obvious line hasn't been done by now. If not; wow...what a proud FA it would be.
By tenesmus
Jul 29, 2009
Pretty sure its been done. How solid is the chockstone now?
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 29, 2009
Done by whom? The chokestone is indestructible for now...
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Nov 3, 2009
Funny how these things work... Done (not by me!!) and the chokestone came out, apparently with a minor nudge.
By tenesmus
Mar 22, 2010
Sorry, but this has been done and is called Cashmere Crack

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