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Living the Dream 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Brian Postlethwait and Barry Oswick
Season: summer
Page Views: 955
Submitted By: old5ten on Jun 30, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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The Gazelle following 'Living the Dream' 5.8

Description 

Start in the shallow right facing corner just below a foreboding chimney/pod. Climb straight up on cracks and in-cut edges. Undercling and traverse left at small lip/roof left of the chimney/pod. Continue up in the left facing dihedral. There are a couple of (crux) thin sections and there is no need to do any fist jamming. It is possible to finish via a flake going out to the left or go straight up and then do a traverse (directional helpful) to the bolted anchor.

Overall this is a really fun route for the grade, with good pro and nice position. Watch for loose rock, especially when traversing to the belay/rap on top.

Location 

Approach via the trail at the lower base of the First Cliff until you reach the far right side (still before the Right Tower). Look for a short, fat chimney/pod in the upper section of the cliff. The route starts in a shallow right facing corner just below the left hand plumb line of the chimney/pod.

Protection 

Double cams to 2" - Lewis/Moynier suggest to 3.5" but we did not use anything larger than a #2 Camalot. If anything, bring more small gear (up to a .75 Camalot). Bolted anchor with links out the left at the top. We rapped with two ropes, a single 70m might be tight (knot ends).


Photos of Living the Dream Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian nearing the top of Living the Dream.
Brian nearing the top of Living the Dream.
Rock Climbing Photo: Living the Dream 5.8
BETA PHOTO: Living the Dream 5.8

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By Lisa Gee
Aug 3, 2016

Sweet route. Didn't have a 3.5", so brought a #4 and bumped it through the wide section after the roof.

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