This route forces some of the biggest reachs I have ever done. Starting below a two-tiered roof on tan rock, climb up to the roof and prepare to be dumbfounded. Figure out some kind of sequence with many of these partial holds and hold on long enough to reach the bomber jug. From here the next move is a huge deadpoint through the tan scar into another good pocket. Then climb out the lip for two more bolts. And there is some loose flakes on this face, so be cautious.
This route stands alone about 30' to the left of 'Water Music'/'Brass Monkey'.
Bolts. There isn't a two bolt anchor, just a single bolt right below the huge roof. Please do not toprope off of the fixed gear at the top, use your own draws for that. If the biners on the chains look worn or do not work properly, please replace them. It's good karma.
The crux. If you can keep your feet on, all is wel...
From: Madison, WI
Jun 8, 2008
Nice work Chris! It's cool to see people getting some new routes done at the park. Keep crankin' man.
Jul 19, 2016
rating: 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
After going unrepeated for 8 years, this route has just seen 4 ascents in several weeks. It's been cleaned up substantially and some new beta wizardry discovered, making this a super rad line given how short it is. It's very hard though to grade given the height dependent nature: could be 13a if you were a starting center on your college basketball team, or possibly 13d if you are one of the young team crushers who hasn't reached 5 feet yet.
That said, Nic has added two bolts allowing the route to continue into High Road, making for a truly incredible, full value and massive line. Increases the difficulty only slightly, but gives it 5 stars for quality: see Getting Slightly Higher.