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Encouragement T 
Heartbreak of Psoriacis T 
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Living for the City T 
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Living for the City 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Norm Reid
Page Views: 255
Submitted By: Josh Baxley on Jul 28, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Living for the City is centered, to the right of E...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

First half of the route is sustained insecure technical stemming on a thin finger crack. Midway up the pitch it gets a bit easier as the crack widens to good finger jams.

If you can't get good finger locks in a #1 master cam / .2 X4, this route will feel hard for the grade.

Location 

Thin crack to the right of Eat a Peach. Shares anchor with this route.

Protection 

Many small cams and nuts. I don't recall placing anything larger than a .4 camelot, but you might want to bring .5 or .75 in case.


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By Nick Drake
From: Newcastle, WA
Apr 10, 2017
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Holy crap this was hard for the grade on the start. Really insecure tips, very few solid jams on the first 1/4 of it. Might be easier later in season with traffic wearing lichen off right face for more secure smears. Much harder than pure joy IMO, even just on TR.
By slim
Administrator
Apr 10, 2017
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

man, i am glad to hear somebody else say that. i did this one a couple weeks ago. i haven't been climbing much lately, and not many cracks, but this felt challenging in a lot of ways. the gear looks really straight forward, but when you actually go to place it, it is very easy to place gear that isn't great. the corner also leans a bit to the "bald" side, which adds to the stress when you are trying to tinker in some gear.

bring a shit ton of small to medium stoppers.
By Nick Drake
From: Newcastle, WA
Apr 10, 2017
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

I agree on going really heavy on small to medium stoppers. I didn't get around to even fiddling with the gear (didn't feel like shitting myself), but it seemed like brass RP/IMPs would be handy to deal with some of the goofy edges/bumps that you find at tieton. I can see how the angle would make fiddling placements in damn tricky.

Good fingers for me are yellow totem/.4 BD. I start going thumb up for pinky around green alien/.3 BD. My partner has smaller fingers and she found the start easier than I did, but still hard for the grade.

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